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S-Crack Formation
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L to R R to L Alpha
Furthest Right S Crack T 
Jingus Con T 
Left S-Crack T 
Middle S Crack T 
Right S Crack T 

Furthest Right S Crack 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 38'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: unclaimed!
Page Views: 48
Submitted By: Russ Walling on Jan 10, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Crag overview

Description 

Sorta hard opening moves on fairly suspect rock give you a dilemma... do I move left like right now on a dike that looks good but may not take pro, or... do I bust a few moves up the dark finger crack that takes good pro and then move left? Either way the moves are not that good and the right variation is probably better, but they both sorta suck. Whatever poison you choose, make a move left at some point into the low angle corner after about 20 feet and scramble to the summit on large holds.

Location 

On the right end of the S Crack formation, starting on a flat topped boulder. Stand tall on this boulder and if you can grab it, that is the start of the route. Descend over the back and to climbers left.

Protection 

Finger and hand sized pieces depending on which way you go. No anchor on top, but you can move over to the two bolts atop Jingus Con, the two bolt route to the left.


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By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Jan 10, 2014

This route is not the gem of the crag. Pseudo awkward start, just enough so you're thinking about the crappy pro. Soon after you're questioning whether you bail out early and left or take the finger crack for a bit and some better rock. Finger crack was opted for, then I bailed left to what turned into 5.4 climbing. Okay pro, loose rock. Less than spectacular. Use bolted anchor to left ( if using bolted anchor, consider protecting the traversing 5.4 climbing to keep the follower from bitching that they may pitch if rock blows out) or set anchor up top... lots-o-options.

Maybe worth a tick.....if you're chasing 1,000

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