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Furlough Day 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 125'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Kevin Capps, 2013
Season: All seasons
Page Views: 2,090
Submitted By: Pete Krzanowsky on Dec 21, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (51)
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BETA PHOTO: Furlough Day in yellow.

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Description 

The new Clear Creek Canyon guide lists this as a two pitch climb, but I have just done the first pitch. It is a long pitch, requiring all of a 70m rope for lowering or rappelling. The route starts just to the left of the first pitch of "Solid Gold".

Start the route by doing a leftward-ascending traverse, clipping 3 to 4 bolts over progressively steeper terrain. The crux is a small roof around bolt 4/5. For a shorter climber, you have to work your feet up a bit and use a mix of handholds to reach up and get the clip. Continue to work your feet up, and pull over the roof with a high step. The rest of the route is 5.7/5.8 climbing. There is a two bolt anchor from which you can be lowered or rappel.

Location 

This route is just to the left of the first pitch of "Solid Gold". Reaching the first bolt involves a bit of an ascending traverse to the left over 5.6ish terrain. The pitch ends at a two bolt anchor. I set an anchor, my partner lowered me, and we came up just a bit short with a 70m rope, resulting in about 5 feet of easy downclimbing. On rappel, he had the same result, a short downclimb. So this pitch takes all of a 70m rope.

Protection 

10 quickdraws and additional draws or other options for the anchor.


Photos of Furlough Day Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Brian on the 2nd pitch.
Brian on the 2nd pitch.

Comments on Furlough Day Add Comment
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By George Bracksieck
Feb 22, 2015

In 1973, I watched Layton Kor lead what is probably this route. He and his partner climbed so quickly that I suspect he had done it before. He was generally fast though, so it could have been the FA. I led Anne Leibold up it in 1978. No bolts were there.
By Kevin Capps
From: Golden, CO
Feb 22, 2015

I'm sure a lot of people have meandered up the slab before bolts, but probably not the exact part of the roof, and pulling over the roof is what makes this route special.
By Pete Krzanowsky
From: Evergreen, CO
Feb 23, 2015

Kevin...I agree completely. Pulling that roof is a blast. The first time I wasn't sure what I'd find...then I found the hand hold that got me over it. Doing this route and Playin' Hooky makes for a fun few hours in CCC!
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Feb 24, 2015

FWIW, I think I climbed this some years back. I recall the 5.9 roof bit. I recall there being some things to be careful with as there were rafters going past below to avoid with cleaning that we'd ordinarily do. Vaguely, it seemed like it had been climbed previously. Beyond that, the memory blurs....

Addendum: as I recall, the first time I was on this wall, I recall seeing scattered pitons and such thinking, I bet Layton was here. Funny, he was, and he probably never named these various lines. Man, he was amazing!
By George Bracksieck
Feb 25, 2015

Proving that no one had previously climbed something is extremely difficult. Do you get out the DNA kit and test for Layton's sweat residue from 1973 or earlier? Or Leo's from some years back? Do you look for 41-year-old chalk marks left by climbers who didn't use chalk? Or chalk marks that might (or might not) have been left some years ago and exposed to years of meteoric precipitation? Just because someone didn't bother to publicize their recreational outing for the day doesn't mean that whatever route you claim hasn't been climbed.

I've climbed routes from which I removed no lichen or loose rock. Whoever might have climbed my way afterward might have assumed that no one had climbed there before. After seeing Richard Wright and Steve Sangdahl install lots of bolt on routes that my partners and I climbed many years earlier (and that were not chossy or dirty in the first place), I decided to start posting on MP.
By Brian Bourquin
From: Denver, CO
Sep 6, 2015

All "New" routes in Colorado should have an asterisk that reads, "*FA probably Layton Kor."
By Dave Clark 5.10
From: Golden, CO
Oct 20, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Good route, despite being 5.7 except for one 5.9 roof move. Second pitch is a half-pitch before joining Solid Gold P2 a few bolts below the large P2 ledge. So you can rap down SG in two raps w a 60m rope.
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Apr 4, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Good climb. The roof is more strenuous than tricky. I am of average height and found the holds easily, but it did take effort to pull over.

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