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YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 220'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Mike Strassman, John Fowler
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 140
Submitted By: Scott Ayers on Aug 8, 2008

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Named for an excited tourist who uttered this immortal run-on, as the first ascent party nearly backed over her children in the Rose Canyon Lake parking area! Begin climbing in the orange, left-facing weakness below the right side of the large roof above. A final cleaning has dramatically improved the first pitch, turning it into a two star experience. The first pitch may seem over-rated at 5.9; with many subsequent ascentionists thinking it deserves a 5.8 grade (without all the munge/loose rock avoidance tactics required before the scrubbing). The second pitch has absolutely no redeeming value, and a rappel station has been installed above the last hard moves on the first pitch at 100 feet. For completeness, the description below is for the original route, in its entirety. (Squeezing the Lemmon quality scale: 2 out of 3 stars, first 100 feet only.)

Pitch 1 – Ascend the various cracks that head towards the right end of the prominent roof. Varied crack techniques are needed to reach the ledge above the roof, but the protection is always good. 5.9, pro to 3”, 120 feet.

Pitch 2 – After resetting the belay at the far left end of the large ledge, traverse way out to the left until the gully is reached. Climb straight up and into the heavily vegetated, mungy, and loose chimney/groove above, and up to the top. 5.7, pro to 3”, 100 feet.


Pro to 3", anchors at 100 feet.


See Squeezing the Lemmon.

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