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Funky President T 
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Funky President 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Will Strickland, Tucker Tech, Todd Gordon, Beth Fredell
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 56
Submitted By: toddgordon Gordon on May 10, 2010

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This is it; The Funky President.

Description 


This climb is up on the hillside above and south of the parking lot. It is best approached by hiking back along the paved road, then hiking up the talus to the climb. Funky President is on a separate formation, all by itself, aways to the right of the clump of summit boulders easily seen from the main highway and parking lot. The formation is the furthest right most climbable rock formation, and has a left to right slanting crack bisecting the formation/boulder. This is Funky President. The climb is quite strenous and starts with a wide section (crux) which leads to a vertical shallow corner and the top.

Location 

From the parking lot, hike back down the road a minute or three, and then hike up the steep hillside. This is the right most climbable rock formation. This climb faces the road.

Protection 

A trad rack will do. Maybe a large cam or two for the OW section. I think there is an anchor on top.


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By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
May 11, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

This went up on Presidents Day, 2007 shortly after both Gerald Ford and James Brown had passed away. The name "Funky President" was a nod to the JB song by the same name, a song that was written about Ford.

Crux is pretty much right off the ground. I vaugely remember placing some 1" gear at the start, then a fist sized piece after the wide. When the handcrack runs out, turn the arete onto the face out left, where easy climbing leads to the top.

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