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Chicken Head Ranch
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Funky Chicken 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 1,386
Submitted By: kevin fox on Aug 15, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (58)
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The route is the first bolted route on the northwest face. It follows the arete. The route doesn't see much traffic on the upper parts of the route, the rock is still exfoliating. Still it is a fun route.


It is the first bolted route on the left on the Northwest face.


11 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

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By Mike Carrington
From: Centenntial
Aug 15, 2010

This route hasn't seen much traffic, because it's only been there about 10 months. Right after it was bolted, I pulled a half person-sized rock off it.
By AnnieLyons
Jul 10, 2015

Climbed this yesterday. It was extremely funky, probably because of the exfoliation it's done over the years. There are no chossy feeling holds on it, and the view at the top is great. If you are chasing sun, come here in the afternoon and watch the sunset.
By Erin O'Brien
Aug 29, 2016

I found the hardest (most committing) moves between bolt 4 and 5. Stick clipping bolt 1 will put your inner chicken at ease. Not very conducive for subsequent climbers to top-rope due to rope drag and angle from the anchor.
By Colin Johnston
May 7, 2017
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Funky indeed. The bolt placements had me unsure if I was on the right line for a little bit there. Popped a 0.75 in the horizontal between the 4th and 5th bolt as the fall would've been ugly from there.

Felt harder than Beaks and Feet, FWIW.

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