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Funky Bolt 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R [details]
FA: Steele, Stroud
Page Views: 19,699
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 6, 2004

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Great route. Totally burly at 5.9. A must for a...


The nice crack right of the 2 all-bolted lines on the south end of the east face. It starts thin and hard, eases up, gets tough again, and finally eases up yet one more time. The bolt protects the upper crux, whereas down low the protection is tough to place. The top is very runout, but easy. Stemming and dropknees are a neccesity on this route.


There is 1 good bolt on the route. Otherwise bring small to medium gear. The anchors are a group of slings wrapped around a horn, so bring extras just in case. Also 2 ropes for the rap.

Photos of Funky Bolt Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Dr. Sciences starting up 'Funky Bolt'
Dr. Sciences starting up 'Funky Bolt'
Rock Climbing Photo: A difficult spot.
A difficult spot.
Rock Climbing Photo: Fun climbing with some tricky gear.
Fun climbing with some tricky gear.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Top-out!
The Top-out!
Rock Climbing Photo: It is difficult to stop and place gear in the firs...
It is difficult to stop and place gear in the firs...

Comments on Funky Bolt Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 16, 2016
By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Mar 17, 2005

You can get down with 1 rope on this climb by using the 2 bolt anchor on the sport route to climbers' left.
By Nathan Fisher
Sep 5, 2005

Led this one the other day, and I have a different perspective.Very difficult to place pro down low, due to the lieback, however, you can slot a hex in the obvious constriction. Above the bolts, the gear is predominately large nut size, and I started running out, that is if you go all the way to the slung horn, which I recommend. Very runout at the finish, but also very easy.

But as Guy says, use 1 rope, and do 2 rappels.
By Rob Man
From: SLC UT
Oct 24, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Good route solid for the grade
By rpc
Apr 19, 2006

The "R" part happens at the top above all difficulties on terrain 5.5 or easier. Great route. From what little I recall, after the initial weird move off the deck, you can jam the crack (which becomes progressively more flaring) to the "funky bolts".
By David Shiembob
From: slc, ut
May 15, 2007
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R

A little more than I bargained for for my warm-up route. Solid for the grade. I found it hard to protect the upper section, even before the 5.5 slab. Long pitch, 170-180 feet. Lieback? I didn't at all.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Aug 14, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Actually, there are two bolts on the route but the first one is probably the name for the route. It is a beat SMC hanger with half of the bolt shaft hanging out and bent. A foot higher or so is a better bolt. Although the route goes higher to a slung horn you can move off left to use intermediate chains for TR and easy rappel. We had 70m cords and had no problem using 1 cord. A 60m should work, but beware.

By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Aug 28, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

Fun route, but be solid at the grade. Not recommended for budding 5.9 leaders.
By Brian B Ballard
From: Laramie, WY
May 18, 2009

A Heady Lead especially up top. Worth the trip to the Horn. I recommend, going out left at the top. I went straight up found one last potential placement as passed it as my stance was above it and then cut out right onto lichen cover slab, Sketchy!
By Bad Sock Puppet
Jul 19, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

I was only able to get a few pieces of gear in the lower half that I actually felt confident about. The fact that the two bolts are so close to each other, and that one is old and badly bent tells me that someone probably took a huge whipper off the runout section and gave the older bolt hell. There's room for bigger gear on the second half. I threw in a #1 Camalot before making the 40ft runout to the horn. If you want there are a few small chicken heads that you can sling on the runout, but they're not needed.
By Ted Farley
From: Bozeman, Mt
Jul 24, 2010

my first 5.9 gear lead at the city. offsets were good for the flare at the bottom. very cool though and highly recommended.
By Kevin Volkening
May 1, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Similar experience a few years back with this being one of my first 5.9 gear lines. Feel very strongly the R needs to be removed
By Landon McBrayer
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 29, 2011

Today I saw a guy break his ankle on this route by blowing the stemming moves above the bolt and hitting the 'slab' below. Ouch. On a more positive note, the lower crack, while flared in places, protects well.
By Greg Gavin
From: SLC, UT
Sep 12, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Great route! The bottom protects well just be sure not to commit to a lie back, and screw yourself out of stances. I used 2 stoppers (DMM offsets), and a the rest protects well with a single rack up the 3 inches. I traversed over to the chains for the slab to the left so take my gear beta with a grain of salt. The funky bolt looks like it may have been drilled with haste on lead, and seems to be at an angle instead of straight in to the rock.
By Finn the Human
From: The Land of Ooo
Sep 12, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R

As a taller climber I found this route to be pretty stout. Moving up the crux past the bolt required some weird back-step & knee-drop action. My shorter partners just stemmed up without too much hassle.
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Oct 1, 2011

This thing was fantastic, probably the best 5.9 we did at the City. Do yourself a favor, don't traverse to the chains at mid height, there is still 60+ feet of worthy climbing to do. The whole route sews up if you keep your eyes open except for the finish which is well below the crux grade, so no R rating is warranted. 2 raps to the ground with a stop at those sport route chains.
By Crag Turkey
From: Holladay, UT
Apr 18, 2016
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R

Great route, but I would say the R is warranted. less so, if you don't take it to the horn. My main reason for saying this is the flare throughout the route is tricky to protect. I think one could safely protect it with offset nuts, hexes or tricams. If you only bring cams expect some heady, albeit easy run outs. Bottom is easier to layback, but I prefer some protection.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 16, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

PG-13 seems more fair. The crux isn't R, and the fall is not a grounder or ledge fall... so yeah, it's not too bad. Caution merited though.

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