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YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Rick Thompson & John Welchhans, 2000
Page Views: 5,639
Submitted By: Old Fart aka Dave Bohn on Jun 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (230)
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High on the route, near the crux. March 2011. (Vie...


About 100 yds west of the Chunky Monkey-LaCholla Jackson zoo is a tall section of very good rock. Funkdemental is the furthest east of these. This is great fun route that reminded me a lot of "The Sinks".

Start above a cave-like hollow and up the hillside to the right, in the same place as Poquito Mas. Watch out for cactus here especially when you pull your rope. Clip the 2nd and 3rd bolts with a long sling or you'll probably run into a lot of rope drag up higher. Then start the fun stuff. Traverse left around the top of the cave on HUGE huecos and up more of the same to a stance under a fair-sized bulge. The crux is a long reach over the bulge to a good edge. The rest of the route climbs the arete using holds on both sides to another stance and some more great pockets to the anchors.


10 bolts, a couple of long runners, anchors at top.

Photos of Funkdemental Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Cactus Cliff - Right (2).
BETA PHOTO: Cactus Cliff - Right (2).
Rock Climbing Photo: Credits for the picture go to Mike! Thanks!
Credits for the picture go to Mike! Thanks!
Rock Climbing Photo: Chuck w/ helpful crossover beta at the routes crux...
Chuck w/ helpful crossover beta at the routes crux...
Rock Climbing Photo: Enjoying the climb before I was attacked by a colo...
Enjoying the climb before I was attacked by a colo...
Rock Climbing Photo: One of my favorites at Shelf.
One of my favorites at Shelf.
Rock Climbing Photo: Tristan Hechtel on Funkdemental.
Tristan Hechtel on Funkdemental.
Rock Climbing Photo: This guy is currently camped out under the landing...
This guy is currently camped out under the landing...
Rock Climbing Photo: Funky view of Funkdemental.
Funky view of Funkdemental.
Rock Climbing Photo: Mark Calder rapping off Funkademental at the end o...
Mark Calder rapping off Funkademental at the end o...
Rock Climbing Photo: Funkemental 2.
Funkemental 2.
Rock Climbing Photo: Funkemental 1.
Funkemental 1.
Rock Climbing Photo: Cactus Cliff - Right (1).  The Price is Right is n...
BETA PHOTO: Cactus Cliff - Right (1). The Price is Right is n...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pulling the crux.
Pulling the crux.

Comments on Funkdemental Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 24, 2016
By Anonymous Coward
Nov 19, 2002

Kind of contrived, since you can easily get around the crux by climbing on the arete 3 feet to the right of the bulge. Cool position, though.
By Edward Jenner
May 27, 2003
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Excellent route. Overhanging jugs, deadpoint crux and pockets really mix things up.
By Mic Fairchild
From: Boulder
Oct 28, 2003
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

One of the many good routes here. Have your belayer unclip your first draw after you move left around the corner. Don't reveal the secret hold in your beta!
By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Oct 29, 2003

AC, just because you went off route to skip doing the hard moves at the crux does not make this route contrived and a one star route. This is one of the best easy 5.11s at Shelf. If you are tall, you can bypass the use of the "secret" hold and reach the large jug by staying left of the arete at the bulge.
By Greaser
Oct 29, 2003

I like the varied nature of this route. It climbs better than it looks and progressively gets more difficult as you climb it.
By Joe Collins
Oct 29, 2003

" just because you went off route to skip doing the hard moves at the crux does not make this route contrived and a one star route."

So 3 or 4 feet to the side of a bolt is off route? I thought that if you are following a bolt line, anything within reach is on route... if not, the route falls under the category of "contrived".

I did this route this past weekend, and I have to agree with the AC on this one. At the "crux", I climbed the obvious easier ground just to the right of the bolt and traversed back left to the next bolt. I realized after doing this that I had probably gone "off-route", so I downclimbed and did the crux the "right" way. It seemed slightly contrived.

In my opinion, a classic sport route combines good climbing with an inspiring line that doesn't avoid obvious natural features. Maybe other people don't include the last factor in their definition of "classic". There are tons of 2-3 star sport climbs at Shelf, but according to the rating system on this site, one star sounds about right: worth doing, but for myself, probably not worth the effort to repeat.
By Edward Jenner
Nov 3, 2003
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Secret hold? Shit, I didn't find any secret hold! I think I went the easy way and still thought it was 11a. Man, now I realize why I have trouble with those 5.9s.

This discussion makes me realize how people see and climb routes so differently. Quite interesting.

I think most of the nearby routes pretty much suck, but then they get 2-3 stars and then this one gets one from some folks simply because it offers the opportunity to go gardening (or is that too far right?).
By Kirk Woerner
Nov 5, 2003
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

If you went gardening, you were not on Funkdamental. This route starts in an overhang, swings out left, and goes straight up clean rock.
By Anonymous Coward
Dec 28, 2004

I like the climb, but 11b? What happened to the 10d grade that was in the Rock and Ice supplement guide from years back? I thought that was right on. What's with a lot of the grades that got "bumped" up a notch or two in the Cactus Guide.

10d, straight up the bolts. 2-3 stars. Well worth repeating.

By Anonymous Coward
Apr 24, 2005

Very fun regardless of comments above - this is a great warm up.
By Adrian Hill
Dec 15, 2005
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Around 12/04/05, the nut holding the hanger on the upper of the two bolts at the bulge was loose. I managed to tighten it by hand, but take care with it. If you're in the area with a wrench, you could generate some good karma by going up and tightening it.
By Will Butler
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 30, 2007

11a seemed about right for this excelent climb. Great exposure up wild holds and pockets. I didn't feel that it was contrived as long as you stayed on the arete proper. 4 stars.
By Kelbad Henderson
From: Colorado Springs
Oct 31, 2007

On Sunday, 10-28-07, there was a mean little rattlesnake that had taken up residence below the big rock that you land on when you lower off this climb. Unfortunately, no one saw it until after it had bit a dog. (BTW, after an overnight stay at the vet, the dog is okay)
By Matt Richardson
From: Longmont, CO
Feb 18, 2008

Fun route, but I don't recall it being contrived or particularly difficult. Maybe it was a height thing? Definitely worth doing if you are over here and an easy tick for the aspiring 11 leader.
By germsauce Epstein
Apr 14, 2011

I'm still trying to figure out what move was supposed to be 5.11.... I'm no superman, but what's the opposite of sandbag?
By Matt M Jones
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Feb 20, 2012

I agree with Germsauce. I found it to be easier than an 11, but I am also 6'4'". Awesome route, my favorite at Shelf for the moment.
By Julia
May 17, 2015

Great climb, cool movements up at the top.
By Jake Dickerson
From: Lander, WY
Nov 8, 2015
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This route is amazing!!! Great varied movement. Get on this thing! There is very little rope drag if you skip the first bolt and use long draws on the 2nd and 3rd.
By Aaron Furman
Dec 13, 2015
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

What a great way to warm up your entire body on a cold December morning - great route....
By Ben Griffin
From: Durango, CO
Jan 16, 2016
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I don't understand any of the negative commentary on this route. I thought this route was a blast. I clipped the first bolt for the first initial moves then unclipped the first bolt. Continued up to the second bolt and clipped the second bolt. I climbed up to the third bolt and put a long runner on that bolt and downclimbed to unclip the second bolt. I had zero rope drag. I don't have any idea what anyone is talking about with secret holds and climbing 3 feet to the right of the crux. The climbing seemed really straightforward. It is extremely soft for the grade but barrels of fun!
By BrittChris
Oct 24, 2016

As of 10/23/2016, there is a wasps nest 3 feet left of the anchors. You don't have to stick your hand in their home for them to attack you. Cleaning anchors while being attacked by a colony of wasps is stressful and painful. I climbed this at sunset, it's likely they are more active during the day.
In the current condition, don't clean this if you're allergic to insect stings.

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