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Hueco: V5 Font: 6C

Type:  Boulder, 10'
Original:  Hueco: V5 Font: 6C [details]
Page Views: 1,520
Submitted By: Emerson Takahashi on Oct 7, 2013

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Jacey working on Fungus

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


Fun route to get on after warming up on the other problems in the area.
Climb up the arete to the right of Fat Albert, topping out with some technical sloper work.

The first few moves seem just a tad bit harder for shorter folk, as the starting foot will probably be too far down to reach the sidepull.


Just to the right of Fat Albert.
Start left hand on a crimpy pinch, and right hand around arete on small crimp.
Top out using slopers to the right of where you started(don't finish on the same face as Fat Albert Gang)
Downclimb using the trees leaning against the boulder


a pad or two is plenty. Flat landing

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 17, 2016
By Danie White
From: SLC, UT
Oct 19, 2013
rating: V3+ 6A+

Really fun techy problem. The black book lists this at V3. A little tricky though?
By Nat Smale
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 20, 2013
rating: V5 6C

I think that the V5 rating is for the sit start.
By Emerson Takahashi
From: Casper, WY
Jan 27, 2014

yes, v5 is from the sit.

I do agree that the higher start goes at about v3
By Greg Gavin
From: SLC, UT
Oct 24, 2014
rating: V4 6B

you guys think the sit is v5? definitely easier than smiley right stand which is supposedly v4. i guess if you're short the reach to the sidepull is pretty big, but maybe you guys use the intermediates?
By Nat Smale
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 24, 2014
rating: V5 6C

Felt V5 to me. I thought it was a full grade harder than Smiley Right, but then again, I find the stand start almost as hard as Smiley Right. I got the side pull but was completely stretched out.
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Oct 24, 2014

Much harder than SR which is all about stretching to a jug. Fungus is a relatively big move to a piss-poor hold. V5 feels right.
By Garrett C
From: SL,UT
Oct 30, 2014
rating: V5 6C

Felt much easier than smiley, and I did the sit start..
By Emerson Takahashi
From: Casper, WY
Nov 1, 2014

This is starting to sound like a competition.
Why are we comparing Smiley Right to Fungus? Everyone has different strengths so it shouldn't really matter if you think Smiley Right is easier or harder.

It doesn't matter what you think about the grade, if you think its easier, mark it down. The average so far shows the grade at v5 - the people have spoken, case closed.
By Greg Gavin
From: SLC, UT
Nov 4, 2014
rating: V4 6B

It's just a discussion Emerson. Chill out
By Emerson Takahashi
From: Casper, WY
Nov 4, 2014

chill as a cucumber greg!

personally, i find the first reachy move of smiley right easier, just due to the fact that there's a high foot. i, like nat, was totally stretched out once i got on the sidepull on fungus
By DylanTot
Oct 17, 2016

what is the problem if you do the sit start and move right to a crimp and then move up to a side pull and straight up to a slopey top out?

Feels just as hard as fungus if not a little more technical. I suppose it's a fungus right variation.

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