REI Community
West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Air Mail T 
Backslash T 
Barbie Doll Arete, The T 
Bit by Bit T,S 
Bottlenecks T 
Clean Dan T 
Coffee Break with Joe T 
Cold Turkey T 
Coniferous Types T 
Crazy Fingers T 
Cruising Lane T 
Detour, The T 
Doc's Little Brother T,TR 
Dr. Michael Solar T,TR 
Duh Dihedral T 
Early Bird Special T 
Fine Line T,TR 
Five Fang Overhang T 
Fork in the Road T 
Formula, The T 
Foxtrot T 
Funeral March T 
Hand Crack (aka White Lightning) T 
Hang Ten T,TR 
Highway 61 T 
Inverted Vee T 
Iron Pony T 
Kashmir T,TR 
Kubla Khan T 
Lady Fingers T 
Lunar Avenue T 
Lunar Lander T 
Masterbator's Edge, The T 
Milk and Honey T 
Milk Dreams T 
Mirage T 
Parallels T 
Pool of Blood T 
Positively Fourth Street T,TR 
Rhadamanthus T 
River Of Darkness T 
Road Narrows T 
Sign of the Cross T 
Snail Mail T 
Srinagar T 
Tampon T,TR 
Tango T 
Tanqueray T 
Terminal Velocity T 
Texas Two-Step T 
Three Lane Highway T 
Toprope Right of Formula TR 
Trip Itch T 
Tryptich T 
Whatever T 
Willow World T 
Working Class Hero T 
X T 
Xanadu T 
Zap Snack T 
Zip Code T 

Funeral March 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: J. Erickson, D. Ferguson, 1970
Page Views: 2,085
Submitted By: Tony B on Nov 5, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Beth Sholes cleans the gaping Funeral March, in El...

  • Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Does this route deserve two stars? Well, it depends. Do you really like offwidth?

    Not sure and want to find out? ...then this is your route! Stack a fist, [chicken-wing], heel-toe cam, arm-bar, foot stack. Leavitate? Well, no. This climb does not require a comprehensive set of offwidth techniques, but it is a good place to learn of practice many of them. It will also amaze you how good of an aerobic workout you can get while still moving so slowly.

    Go up the West Ridge to the Cirque of the Cracks area and find the popular routes Terminal Velocity and Hand Crack. This will be after quite a long uphill, in an area with very little slope. Just to the right (south) of the route Hand Crack, at the right hand side of the same solid buttress, is this 6" wide splitter. This route is unique in [character] and should not be at all hard to identify. Climb easy moves up and into the vertical wall with the small cap/roof for an off width challenge. The route can be safely lead with just a few large pieces, but for comfort, take your arsenal and place at will. If you need OW gear, contact Eric Corkran (snicker).

    There are anchors nearby at the top from which to descend.


    Large, big, and Huge will be most helpful. The crack is 6" average. Large cams (#4-5 Camalot) and Bigbros or Tubechocks are the best idea. A few standard pieces will go as well.

    Photos of Funeral March Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Ross, wishing he never met me.
    Ross, wishing he never met me.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Chris Plesko climbing Funeral March. Photo by By J...
    Chris Plesko climbing Funeral March. Photo by By J...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Fun, fun, fun.
    Fun, fun, fun.

    Comments on Funeral March Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Leo Paik
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Jun 4, 2005

    For a non-OW climber, this route can be done with a fair bit of face climbing. As such, 5.9 may be soft. Pro is still big.
    By Jay Eggleston
    From: Denver
    Sep 25, 2009

    Easier than the off-width on the Grand Giraffe. I was glad to have 2 #6 Camalots and a blue Big Bro. The flake in the crack you can place smaller gear in is loose. This is a good climb if you enjoy a little groveling.
    By Rich Farnham
    Jan 12, 2010
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    The hardest climbing (the first 10-15' of the wide crack) is well protected with #6 Camalots (C4, i.e. #5 old-style), but they get pretty tipped out higher up. The upper half of the climb has a flake in the back that I placed some Aliens behind. It didn't feel particularly loose to me (compared to the one in the back at the start of the climb), but I also wasn't positive that the gear would have held a fall.

    Jay's recommedation of 2 #6s and a blue Big Bro worked well for me. A single set of other gear will more than cover the rest.

    I found this to be a pretty good climb (if you're into this kind of thing). There aren't a lot of good OW cracks on the Front Range, but I found this to be a good one to get some training laps on. The lead is a little junky, but if you just want some OW training laps this can be easily toproped by climbing Hand Crack (aka White Lightning).
    By James Beissel
    From: Boulder, CO
    May 26, 2010
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    Still some loose stuff on the upper part of this route. If you choose to do the direct finish be very careful.
    By Guy H.
    From: Fort Collins CO
    Mar 4, 2013

    About 75 pounds of rock came out of the upper section this weekend. It is probably best to cut left to the hand crack finish. Scary!
    By Eric Klammer
    From: Boulder, CO
    Mar 15, 2015
    rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

    This thing crushed my body and soul. Way harder than I expected giving the 5.9- rating in the guidebook. My second was able to follow it rather easily with a fair amount of face climbing, but on lead with 1 #6 and a few crappy Aliens behind loose and crumbly flakes, you can bet I was in full on squeeze chimney mode. That being said, while scary, this climb was oddly enjoyable. The sequence I used to pull the final roof was certainly something to witness. Legs wrapped around that final big fin, slowly humping and huffing away. Ahh memories....

    Also, final roof looks clear of loose blocks. It's a fitting finale to the route, don't miss out!
    By VRP
    From: Denver, CO
    Mar 12, 2017

    Reasonable with nothing more than a #3, good fun.

    Mountain Project

    The Definitive Climbing Resource

    MTB Project

    Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

    Powder Project

    Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
    FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About