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Functional Idiot 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Sport, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Dan Snyder
Page Views: 3,016
Submitted By: Chris Archer on Aug 15, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (81)
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Rated 12d in the guide, this route has cleaned up nicely and has gotten significantly easier. Follow the line of bolts between Just Put It In on the left and Zoaster Toaster on the right. (FI is 4 routes right of Lunchables.) Three difficult sections separated by excellent rests, with the crux at the end. Note that a variation called Hooked on Estrogen (12c/d?)heads up and left after the 4th bolt of Functional Idiot.


13 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

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By icsteveoh
From: salt lake city, UT
Jun 1, 2010

no single move harder than 5.11 just better have eaten your wheeties for breakfast. Definitely rated on endurance more so than hardest move.
By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Jul 6, 2010
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Really hard to rate this route, the moves maybe grace the 12- range at the very top, but your sooo pumped when you get there, they feel much harder than that. Very sustained climbing with a couple of shakes, to a steep thiner finish. 12b/c when you add the pump factor?
By Scott W
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 22, 2011
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

I thought this route was easier than any 12b in the canyon. The Big Calm feels quite a bit harder. No hands rest before crux, no pump to speak of.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
May 29, 2017
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

I found this route to be pretty straight foward the entire way up except for the last two bolts before the chains, where a tough to read crux appears (hint- don't go left where you want to). Once you suss it out, though, it's pretty straightforward, and if you can manage the pump, you should be okay.

I'd say very doable for 5.12b, and very approachable too- not to mention an all around great climb. If you fire off 49 and Zoaster, this is a great next route!

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