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Rattlesnake Canyon Crags (including Upper and Lower Alchemist)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cupcakes & Champagne S 
Fun in the Sun S 
King Snake Crack T 
Tender Flakes of Mercy T 
the Labrador Ate the Cupcakes S 
Ugly Duckling S 
Written Exam T 

Fun in the Sun 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 230'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R [details]
FA: Mike Forkash and Gary Anderson, 1980
Season: Any time of year. Even Christmas.
Page Views: 992
Submitted By: andy patterson on Sep 27, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Alex Degolia leads the upper headwall of Fun in th...

Description 

A wonderful slab outing! Bring a picnic for the summit, which is pretty hard to beat. Fun in the Sun tackles the plumb line of the Upper Alchemist, and ascends a sea of beautiful patina, seams, and slab. I've led the route as one looong pitch, but I barely made it to the top before running out of rope. I highly recommend breaking the route in to two pitches.

Enjoy!

Location 

Center of Upper Alchemist. Just right of Tender Flakes of Mercy.

Protection 

A rack of 8 draws and some pieces to 1.5" will provide occasional protections. There are some healthy runouts, but the bolts are where you need them. As of Summer 2014, myself and Matthew Fienup replaced the old 1/4" bolts with beefy 1/2" Rawls.

To Descend: rap the route with a 70m, and do two raps to the ground.


Photos of Fun in the Sun Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Per my usual, here's a rough sketch of the Upper A...
Per my usual, here's a rough sketch of the Upper A...
Rock Climbing Photo: Alex Degolia leads the stunning second pitch of Fu...
Alex Degolia leads the stunning second pitch of Fu...
Rock Climbing Photo: Patrick Callery nears the summit of Fun in the Sun...
Patrick Callery nears the summit of Fun in the Sun...
Rock Climbing Photo: Carolyn Libuser climbs the upper headwall of Fun i...
Carolyn Libuser climbs the upper headwall of Fun i...
Rock Climbing Photo: With a marine layer obscuring the view of the ocea...
With a marine layer obscuring the view of the ocea...
Rock Climbing Photo: Patrick Callery leads the stunning, upper headwall...
Patrick Callery leads the stunning, upper headwall...

Comments on Fun in the Sun Add Comment
Show which comments
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Sep 28, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

For the less adventurous, there is detailed beta here.
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Carpinteria, CA
Sep 28, 2014

Thanks for the detailed description, Matthew! You beat me to the punch. I was in the middle of drawing some more maps when I saw your description. I'll put out an "overview map" soon, but I wanted to get something up about this route.
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Sep 29, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

Here's the view, from the summit of Fun in the Sun - starting with Gibraltar Rock, high on the hillside and finishing with the ocean. The climber is Patrick Callery.

By Patrick Callery
Oct 10, 2014

I can't believe this route sat untouched for so many years. Thanks Andy & Matthew for replacing the bolts and giving me that first lead...
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Oct 12, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

To be clear, it was Andy's vision and hard work that we should be grateful for. I was a late arrival in Rattlesnake Canyon. And Andy told me how incredible this route is fully a year before I finally got on it. Thank you, Andy.
By Jeff Mahoney
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Aug 9, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

Finally (hooray!) got on this and the other routes yesterday. Great position, movement and fun. The bolt placements are where you want them and a couple of finger pieces will probably ease the mind, but if you're used to runouts, it's not bad. (If your limit is 5.8, you will probably not enjoy this route.) And like Andy said, make it a two-pitch deal---even then the diagonal across the headwall at the top is tugging you in the wrong direction. I can imagine doing it in one long pitch, but I'd rather not ;-) Great work putting this rig back on the radar!
By Matt Nicassio
Dec 15, 2015

I see that the description mentions requiring a 70m rope to rappel. Is it not possible to climb and rap down using a 60m rope?
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Dec 16, 2015
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

Correct. You need a 70m rope to rappel the route.

With a 60m rope, you can walk over to the top of Tender Flakes and rappel that route.
By Andrew Schaeffer 1
Apr 20, 2016

Left a C4 #1 Camalot in a crack on Fun in the Sun on 4.3.16. If someone gets to it before me, please give me a shout out. Thank you.
By Alex DeGolia
Apr 20, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

Very fun route and fine position. Stunning summit. Overall enjoyable outing. Andrew, we were out there last week and didn't see a C4. Hopefully you already nabbed it.