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White Heat Wall
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Fun, Fun, Joy, Joy 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Ken Trout
Page Views: 275
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Sep 21, 2009

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Just about at the point where the rightward traver...

Description 

((Fun, Joy)^2)-2FunJoy is nothing special, but worth doing if you're running out of 5.10s and you're in the area. There is a bit of afternoon shade at the base which is nice for the belayer. This line is a bit unusual for Sinks, climbing more like a Shelf Road 5.10 with lieback moves up the crack at the start.

Begin just right of the juniper tree, scramble up to the ledge, and lieback up the crack for about 15', where great pockets lead around the buttress to the right. A cruxy reach leads to the trivial, low-angle slab above.

Location 

Ascends the line of bolts just right of the obvious dihedral on the left end of the White Heat Wall.

Protection 

~6 Bolts to 2 Bolt Anchor. Stick clip recommended.


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By TNF2323
Oct 3, 2014

As of 9-21-14, it appeared that a rattlesnake was living in the crack at the base of this climb. It was sleeping on the top ledge of the beginning blocks of the route in the early evening.

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