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(p) The Fun Factory
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Fun Factory 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R [details]
FA: Louie Anderson (2011)
Page Views: 2,079
Submitted By: tinyonion on Feb 6, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (58)
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BETA PHOTO: bolt locations

Open, with restrictions: Park on the street MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climbs up on natural and manufactured holds up the right facing ramp/crack system. Lots of different fun movements make this climb the best at the quarry for the grade. The crux lies a little bit after the 5th bolt where it joins up with the climb to the right. To clean it top rope the other end up and un-clip as you go.

Anchors are shared with the 5.9 to the right so you can setup a toprope for that climb via this route.

Location 

Starts on the slab section in the rust colored area to the far left of the main wall. Follows the obvious line up to the anchors.

Protection 

7 bolts to a two bolt anchor with rappel rings.


Photos of Fun Factory Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Easy enough start right up the rusted color line.
Easy enough start right up the rusted color line.
Rock Climbing Photo: Fun Factory rock detail, Riverside Quarry
Fun Factory rock detail, Riverside Quarry
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbers on Fun Factory (5.9 R), Riverside Quarry
Climbers on Fun Factory (5.9 R), Riverside Quarry
Rock Climbing Photo: Clean picture of the climb.
BETA PHOTO: Clean picture of the climb.

Comments on Fun Factory Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 3, 2017
By C Miller
Administrator
Apr 9, 2017
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

CONDITION REPORT 
As noted the 3rd bolt is missing and as such the route should be considered "R" rated and not attempted until the missing bolt is replaced.

Due to a large portion of the route falling off the difficulty has been bumped up to 5.9.
By andiran
Feb 20, 2012

Some of the flakes to the left that you'd want to undercling between the first and second bolts are loose. I should have marked them. A brush would be helpful--still kind of dirty (due to being newer and/or recent rainfall).
By tinyonion
Feb 21, 2012

I went lower with my feet in the seam near the bottom of the beta picture and my hands near the bolt line. It's a pretty solid way to do it but not as secure as going up with the underclings I would imagine. There is also a glued in bridge between the third and fourth bolt that should probably not be stepped on.
By C Miller
Administrator
Mar 18, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

A bit scrappy but it does climb the easiest path through some interesting terrain. Worth doing at least once to marvel at the rock engineering.
By Phil Esra
Dec 21, 2013

More fun than Industrial Bliss or Worker Bee. Really surprisingly fun for the grade. Great sunny warm-up.
By Countzen
From: Santa Monica, CA
Dec 5, 2015
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

chossy. Seriously, had my GF lead this, since its a 5.7 as a warm up, and we were both pulling rocks off and tossing it down hill following the bolt line.
By The Billy Goat
From: fontana,ca
Jan 12, 2016

Some holds seem to be glued on. I didn't really like this route for two reasons. 1st, the holds felt fragile, someday some belayer is gonna get a rock on their head and someone is gonna take a nice lil whipper. 2nd, the wrap station is awkwardly placed on the lip of a rock over hanging the route. Is a little bit of a reach if you're short. It also seems fragile, it's just not a good placement.
By Ben Crowell
Apr 28, 2016

I'm the person who was hurt on April 23. Guy Dadson, who commented a few days ago, was my climbing partner. We've compared notes a little more now, and I think I can put together a more accurate description of what was going on.

First, I think the third bolt is now missing. Possibly whatever it was attached to has now fallen off. After the second bolt, I noticed that there was quite a long run-out to what I thought was the third bolt. I spent some time looking for another bolt, and couldn't find one, so I just went ahead and ran it out.

Second, there was a glued hold right below what I now know is the fourth bolt. It was a toaster-sized rock glued into a crevice. It had chalk on it, and using it seemed to be the only way to make the climb go at 5.7. I pounded on it, and it seemed solid, so I went ahead and put my full body weight on it, and it came off.

With hindsight, I wish I had looked at this page rather than the guidebook. This comment by The Billy Goat in January was a nearly perfect prediction of what happened to me: "Some holds seem to be glued on. I didn't really like this route for two reasons. 1st, the holds felt fragile, someday some belayer is gonna get a rock on their head and someone is gonna take a nice lil whipper."

I suppose I'm biased, but I rated this route as a bomb due to the loose rock and unreliable glued holds.
By steveloh
Oct 30, 2016

Avoid this climb. The rating made it seem like it was a great warmup or lead practice. Like Ben Cromwell explained, the holds on this are unreliable. We had 2 separate climbers (not newbies either) pull off huge rock chunks. The kind which shake the earth when they explode on impact with the ground. Almost seriously injured the belayers below. I think the climb is pretty different now from the guidebook description. Some holds look glue-reinforced, which only makes them even sketchier. Don't trust.

If you're a belayer on this, wear a helmet. My advice is skip it.
By Ramiro Mosquera
Feb 27, 2017

It seems like the people who did this before me had more of an issue with loose rock than I did. Lead it and a few friends did laps on it and nothing seemed to be coming off, it seems everything loose has already gotten pulled off.

That said it did feel quite stiff for 5.7 perhaps due to the decreased number of holds, overall a very fun/challenging climb for the grade that I'd recommend to anyone in that range. Again, not saying it didn't use to have problems but I was there a few days ago and everything seemed A-Ok.
By Kimberly Kay
Apr 3, 2017

Confirming that the 3rd bolt is now missing. The route from 2nd bolt to 4th bolt is quite a long run out-- be careful. Lots of holds appear to be missing as of April 2, 2017. After 2nd bolt you will notice a lot of broken and loose rocks lying around.

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