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Bastard T 
Dyslexic T 
Fun and Games T 
If I Only T 
Lions and Tigers and Bears T 
Munckinland T 
Not in Kansas T 
Slipper T 
Tin Man T 
We Are Off T 
West Face T 
Wizard of Ooze T 
Yellow Brick Road T 

Fun and Games 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 500'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Karl Kiser, Matt Monagle & Cindy Weaver, summer 1982
Page Views: 249
Submitted By: Karl Kiser on Dec 4, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: Pitch 1. Photo Ian Harris.

Description 

(by Marta Reece)

Following Karl Kiser's description, Meghan Curry and I climbed what's now fully described below as Fun and Games. We found it to be an excellent route deserving many repeats.

Pitch 1. (5.6, 120 ft) Start on the right side of the north face just above a large oak tree. Go up a small crack system past a tiny oak tree. Continue up another 20 feet or so and then follow a horizontal crack to the right. Set up a belay on a ledge on the main line of the ridge.

Pitch 2. (5.7+, 80 ft) Go up an easy slab then sharply left along a pair of gently sloping cracks/seams. Step up and continue left and up over slabs with a gradually relaxing angle. Protect in pockets found along the seams. Belay from a wide, grassy ledge above a tree.

Some of the step-ups on Pitch 2 are balancy and a rope drag could be an issue if it were combined with Pitch 1.

Pitch 3. (5.7, 90 ft) Go up a narrow band of easy slab. Shift to the crack on the right to go around a block to a grassy ledge.

Pitch 4. (5.7, 90 ft) Start up the slab (not protectable but short), walk left, take the minimal left-facing corner up a rather chossy slope (also short) to a hand crack. End on a ledge to the left of the tree.

Pitch 5. (5.9, 120 ft) Move up a trough and/or easier ground to the right. Step left and onto a steep slab and up to the left end of the large fin. This takes you into a large dihedral. Stem over grass up this clean feature. Exit to the right onto the face before the large and loose looking chock stones.

Historical Description 

The original posting of the route on Mountain Project, as submitted by Karl Kiser

p1: (5.7 ish) follow the weakness straight up and a little right (toward the gully) to a belay below a steep section;

p2: (5.9 ish) climb straight up, step right (the crux) and then up in a generally right facing weakness;

p3: (5.7 ish) just climb up and finish at the top (an unmemorable pitch).

The climb probably hasn't been repeated because it is off the beaten path.

Location 

The route is on the finger of rock to the left of the gully which forms the northern boundary of the West Face route.

An easy scramble down the other side and you'll be at the dead tree you pass on your way to the rappel from Yellow Brick Road or West Face. Go east along the ledge, then scramble down to the rap station at the top of Not in Kansas. A single, two-rope rappel followed by a scramble (going somewhat to the west and down) will take you off the rock.

Protection 

Standard Organ Trad rack.


Photos of Fun and Games Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 2. Photo Ian Harris.
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 2. Photo Ian Harris.
Rock Climbing Photo: All but the start of the route.
BETA PHOTO: All but the start of the route.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 4 as we did it. Other alternatives may exist...
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 4 as we did it. Other alternatives may exist...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 3. Photo Meghan Curry.
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 3. Photo Meghan Curry.
Rock Climbing Photo: View of Pitch 5 from the top of the dihedral. We d...
BETA PHOTO: View of Pitch 5 from the top of the dihedral. We d...
Rock Climbing Photo: Crux on Pitch 5. Photo Marc Tarnosky.
BETA PHOTO: Crux on Pitch 5. Photo Marc Tarnosky.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 3, from about the place where you leave the ...
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 3, from about the place where you leave the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of Pitch 5. Route goes to the left of the fi...
BETA PHOTO: Start of Pitch 5. Route goes to the left of the fi...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down from Pitch 4 belay. Photo Meghan Curr...
BETA PHOTO: Looking down from Pitch 4 belay. Photo Meghan Curr...

Comments on Fun and Games Add Comment
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By Marta Reece
Administrator
From: Las Cruces, NM
Aug 6, 2016
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Alternative finish to Pitch 5 is to exit the dihedral to the right when less than half way up it. Go right on large cracks, then follow a crack under a roof the rest of the way. More protectable and fun, except for a bush you have to get through at the very top.
By Ian Harris
From: Las Cruces NM
Aug 7, 2016
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Following Marta Reece's description above, this a nice route. I am 5' 8" and found the crux move on P5 in the high 5.8 range, although I may have missed a crucial hold. It is well protected however, so go for it! The dihedral above the crux may ease up slightly once cleaned up a bit (small tufts of grass and dirt).

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