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Fun And Games 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 170'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Joe Herbst & Friends 1977
Page Views: 423
Submitted By: Flavaflav on Mar 6, 2014

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start in a small choss cave, stemming up on a few good edges and smears to a burly move with an odd under cling to a tiny crack/corner for balance. Sandbagged, but with a #5 cam you can figure it out without commitment. Follow the crack starting without feet, or go right over questionable rock to the next ledge. The occasional solid jug gives you some security while stepping on marginal rock. Build belay in the cave, as the trees are looking fairly shabby. On the next pitch, stem up and follow the corner with odd placements, a short section with laybacks on varnished jugs takes you to a ledge with a big tree. Belay from crack behind tree.

The bad: loose rock laying everywhere, and loose rock on route.

The good: interesting figuring out the crux beginning, and pushing through the juggy laybacky section up top, "interesting" descent.

Location 

Large corner/chamber to the right of Nadia's Nine, not so visible from Lost Creek Parking Area. Go left at trail intersection, follow wash for a bit, join up with the red trail that follows the cliffs. As the cliff starts to turn, you should see the first big corner. Take the path of least resistance up to it.

Getting down was interesting. Unrope at big tree, scramble up the harder than expected hueco crack to climber's right with bush, then scramble up around the rock with a tunnel under it, then down to the right to a stout short tree with a cord in place. One rappel down past a dead tree with a nylon sling to a good platform will lead you to a bushy albeit easy scramble down past a very large tree. 60m would be fine, rope surprisingly pulls easy. Rapping from here is unnecessary, just be careful of all the desert plants. Continue 50 or so yards to the right to the start of the climb.

Protection 

standard rack to #5 Camalot, used a fair amount of nuts. Couple alpine draws for wandering pro, mostly quickdraws are fine for extension. Bring sling/rap equipment to back up one rappel. Helmets if you want to continue your climbing career without holes in your head.


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