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Diggler, The S 
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Fully Automatic T,S 
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I Don’t Know What It'’s Called, I Just Know The Sound It Makes When It Takes A Man’'s Life (aka Beretta) S 
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Semi -Automatic T 
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Fully Automatic 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: J. Baker
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,099
Submitted By: half-pad-mini-jug on Oct 4, 2012

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On the send. I know it's a crappy pic, it is a st...

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Fully Automatic is a fun, bouldery alternate start to the trad climb, Semi-Automatic. Luke Childers placed the bolts on the line on the arete in 2011, which, after the 3rd/4th bolt, the climbing trends directly into the dihedral, and not straight up the arete (and the moves on the upper arete are HARD). So, I decided to link the start of this bolted route to the finish of the trad line, creating Fully Automatic.

Power past four bolts on the burly, slopey underclings and crappy smears on the overhanging wall that slopes away from you, making the smears that much worse. Work over to the arete and turn the corner into the dihedral. The initial boulder problem is very sequential, and I recommend a stick clip for the first two bolts, otherwise you could have a bad fall.


This is at the Armory, just across the tyrol, betweeen Fission aka Ken T'ank and Semi-Automatic.


4 quickdraws for the bolts, and a few finger-sized cams (I used #0.5 and #0.75 Camalots and a gray Alien).

Photos of Fully Automatic Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Fully Automatic is the red line and Semi-Automatic...
BETA PHOTO: Fully Automatic is the red line and Semi-Automatic...

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By Luke Childers
Oct 6, 2012

Nice work, Jason! Great idea climbing it into the corner. Great mixed line!!

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