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Full Tilt 

Hueco: V3 Font: 6A

   
Type:  Boulder, 8'
Original:  Hueco: V3 Font: 6A [details]
FA: Jake Perry
New Route: Yes
Season: Fall
Page Views: 135
Submitted By: Jake Perry on Apr 27, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: The finish

Description 

A super sweet traverse problem that uses multiple boulders and a crazy roof. Double kneebars, toe hooks, heel hooks, and crosses oh my!

Start matched on the bottom of the roof with a double kneebar and little rock for feet. Traverse your way around using the roof and the next two boulders to eventually top out on the roof. The big boulder to the left of the roof is not used.

It might be a good idea to brush holds of before you climb on them as it can get pretty dusty in this cave.

This video is really helpful for understanding this route since not many problems out there use multiple boulders.


Location 

From the gazebo, look left to the South End boulders. Find the pancake like boulder lying on top of some other boulders, that's where this is.

Protection 

2 or 3 pads. A spotter would be nice for the topout.


Photos of Full Tilt Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The start
BETA PHOTO: The start
Rock Climbing Photo: The middle section
BETA PHOTO: The middle section
Rock Climbing Photo: Full Tilt, starts at the back of the cave. Start f...
BETA PHOTO: Full Tilt, starts at the back of the cave. Start f...

Comments on Full Tilt Add Comment
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By Jake Perry
From: Concord, NH
Apr 27, 2016

Some may see this line as forced/unnatural due to it avoiding an easier (but more awkward) topout and not using the big boulder to the left of the roof, but I did the line this way because I knew it would climb the best. If you're really bothered by that then go ahead and climb it however you want, this is just the line I did.

If that doesn't bother you then this line climbs pretty classic and has some really unique moves I haven't done anywhere else yet.

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