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Full Tilt 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Dale Bard 1977
Page Views: 120
Submitted By: V.X. on Jun 30, 2012

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Mark Hudon on "Full Tilt", 5.11a, 1979. ...

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  • Description 

    Walk up the approach ramp up and right past "Slipstream" several hundred feed. Keep going up and right until a brushy ledge system is reached. Go right until you find yourself under a 60' white detached tooth. The right side is "Full Tilt" and features a hard offwidth roof maybe 12 feet of the ground. The roof leads into an easier 5.8 dihedral. This climb is easy to toprope by chimneying the left side of the tooth, "Inside Out", and then climbing into and out the cave behind the tooth (5.6). Toprope/descend off chain anchors. A great location on Black Wall with views of Donner. The ratings in guidebooks are always off on this climb because it never gets a send. It is full on hard 11 OW roof.


    Cams 2"-5.5".

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    By Willoughby
    Sep 3, 2013

    This is easily toproped, but I recall from toprope soloing this thing a few years ago that the line rubs on a pretty sharp edge when weighted. Like I said, it's been a few years, so I can't recall the exact scenario, but I do recall getting good and spooked by it.

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