|Original:||YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]|
|Submitted By:||Tom Rangitsch on Sep 23, 2008|
|Comments on Full Tilt||Add Comment|
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By Jikimika Dinglehoffer
From: Lander, Wy
Oct 6, 2016
This route goes on gear. After doing the route on bolts, Chris Marley led the route placing gear on lead (3 pieces, mostly to protect the crux, primarily small units), red-pointing without clipping any bolts, except the chains. It may be hard to adequately protect the 5.12- section at the bottom, but there is reasonable gear at your feet for the upper crux.
The bolts definitely belong there, I can't imagine making the gear safe on an OS attempt, but head-pointing a steep seam like this provides an interesting challenge. You could certainly place more gear if you wanted to get creative. A ground-up, onsight attempt on gear would be an engaging experience for someone with the skills.
These are the good placements I've found.
.75 horizontally placed in the jug below the 2nd bolt.
yellow c3 in a shallow fingerlock out left
0.3 camalot or equivalent in the next good constriction to the right.
Crux gear:very good purple c3 or a brass offset.
(opt.) good green c3.