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Colchuck Balanced Rock
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Accendo Lunae(Let It Burn/West Face Var.) T 
Colchuck Balanced Rock Col (East Lake Side Approch) T 
Full Tilt (Tempest Wall Free Version) T 
Leche La Vaca T 
Let it Burn T,S 
Milk n' Honey T 
Rikki Tikki Tavi T 
Scarface T 
Scoop, The T 
Tempest, The T 
West Face T 

Full Tilt (Tempest Wall Free Version) 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 1200', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Seth Angivine, John Berry, Evelyn Cheng, Jared Otto, Megan Polk, Thomas Ramier, Craig Rankin, Tim Stedman, Abe Traven
New Route: Yes
Season: Summer/Fall
Page Views: 2,697
Submitted By: Thomas Ramier on May 23, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Before the lip

Description 

A stand out route in the perfect alpine setting with excellent climbing on all pitches from 5.9 to 5.11 and one pitch of 5.12.

Location 

The route starts a few hundred feet down the gulley to the right of the start of the West Face route.

Protection 

Standard rack with extra #1 and #2 Camalots for p2
Nothing bigger then a #3 Camalot is needed.
(See also topo for The Tempest Wall)


Photos of Full Tilt (Tempest Wall Free Version) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Hand jams!
Hand jams!
Rock Climbing Photo: The Tilt
The Tilt
Rock Climbing Photo: Full Tilt
Full Tilt
Rock Climbing Photo: do it again
do it again
Rock Climbing Photo: Early adventures and exploration in hand to hand c...
Early adventures and exploration in hand to hand c...
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo
BETA PHOTO: Topo

Comments on Full Tilt (Tempest Wall Free Version) Add Comment
Show which comments
By braddean Lignoski
From: Seattle
Sep 4, 2017

One of the most unique routes I've ever been on. Profoundly exposed and intimidating. Nice work, Tom!

If you're working this route, it is easiest to bring two ropes:
fix one at the anchor for rapping back to the belay (your belayer can throw you a rope to pull you in).

To minimize groveling and maximize fun (you did hike all your crap up here for fun, right?), just untie and pull the rope (leaving the gear in the roof) when you get back to the belay. Now you can lead again without having to aid climb a massive roof to clean the gear. In other words, cleaning this route is a massive pain. Consider bribing your partner if it looks like you might be expected to do it.

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