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Big Worm T 
Central Corner T 
Full Effect, The S 
Full Throttle S,TR 
Jammit Damnit T,S 
Lichen Flakes T 
Logjam T 
Lower Buttress Direct S 
Reasons to be Cheerful T 
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Sergeant Schultz S 
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Twit T 
Wild Blue Yonder S 

Full Throttle 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Dave Quinn
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 868
Submitted By: David Quinn on Aug 16, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Alec climbing and Tyler belaying... A sweet line i...

Description 

This route is so much fun,.. it has you firing on all cylinders from beginning to end! With a good clip stick you can hang the 1st three draws from the ground or hike around and rap in from the anchor of Sergeant Shultz. The route follows the obvious overhanging white rib of rock at the start of the gully that leads up to "Wild Blue Yonder" and "Skunks in the Gym". Climb straight up to the 1st bolt and make increasingly difficult moves out right to an obscure hold in dark rock to clip the 2nd bolt. Launch back left and make super fun compression moves to the top of the rib and clip the 3rd bolt at your hip. If you are "heroically" strong, (or just not as weak as me), you might clip lower. After encountering the fourth and final bolt, make another crux move to exit left to the anchor!

Location 

10' left of "Sergeant Shultz" and 30' right of "The Full Effect"

Protection 

4 Glue in Wave Bolts


Photos of Full Throttle Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Dave Quinn on Full Throttle, 5.12 a/b Rumney, NH
Dave Quinn on Full Throttle, 5.12 a/b Rumney, NH
Rock Climbing Photo: DQ - Full Throttle, Triple Corners, Rumney, NH
DQ - Full Throttle, Triple Corners, Rumney, NH
Rock Climbing Photo: don't work there is a jug... that's the one... in ...
don't work there is a jug... that's the one... in ...
Rock Climbing Photo: One last funky move to get to the anchors.
One last funky move to get to the anchors.
Rock Climbing Photo: Alec in the steeps! Amazing compression movement t...
Alec in the steeps! Amazing compression movement t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Long reach toward the top of the route. Could be a...
Long reach toward the top of the route. Could be a...
Rock Climbing Photo: DQ - Full Throttle, Triple Corners, Rumney, NH
DQ - Full Throttle, Triple Corners, Rumney, NH

Comments on Full Throttle Add Comment
Show which comments
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Aug 17, 2015

Instant mini classic! Three stars of fun in a two star route (only because of its length)
By Eric Leclerc
From: Montreal
Aug 17, 2015

Can't wait to try this new route. This one might help bringing more people on The Full Effect. Such a great climb that is overlooked due to it's location.
Good job mister Quinn on this find!!!
By Matt Levine
From: Concord, NH
Aug 17, 2015

Looks awesome. Nice work!
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Mar 22, 2016
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

I took an onsight attempt on this one today. Just gotta say FANTASTIC CLIMB on perfect rock, hard compression and slopers, though provoking sequences... I could go on but I'll say this... Gotta be one of the best climbs added in the last few years... Unfortunately my tank was low going in to it and I melted off a perfect hold at the last bolt... I will be back soon to do it justice
By Derek Jf
From: Northeast
Jul 3, 2016
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Great climb, awesome addition to TC. Every move was fun, especially the left hand arete guarding the chains. Slap away!
By Ian Grant
From: Cambridge
Aug 1, 2016
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Great route. Has anyone fallen going to the jug from which one clips the third draw? Seems like it would be a close call.
By Franck Vee
Jun 22, 2017

@ Ian I have. You need an attentive belayer for that part - even when trying to clip from the hip, you do need a little bit of slack, but you don't want your belayer giving out "regular" slack at that bolt. And my belayer did take in a bit of the slack and I still ended up right above her.

I never could make that clip actually and that's what stopped me in that route. I could stay on the hold, but no way I could clip AND stay on the holds!

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