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Full Steam Ahead 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13 [details]
FA: JJ Schlick, Seth Dyer, Wade Forrest
New Route: Yes
Season: Fall/spring
Page Views: 1,055
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Oct 12, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Looking up at it from the base.


Sometimes a vision needs time to ferment. Time to age. Time to slowly build flavor... Full Steam Ahead is such a line, and firmly supplants, Three Sheets to the Wind, which was a route I established years and years ago, but never finished the direct way I wanted it to for various reasons. Full Steam Ahead takes on the direct line to the cap roof, and then an exposed twist out left to gain the anchors.

Start out by climbing up underclings, sidepulls, and flake jugs to the first bolt (a #1 TCU can be placed lower, but isn't exactly obvious) The low crux involves a big, tenuous, undercling move to a very high wrapper jug. This move can feel pretty bizarre to set up for, but once you find it the movement is pretty textbook.

Surf up and right to a very thin seam, passing one more bolt. Your first good wires will be a little ways after the second bolt. Summon your technical side, and move up, and then left to another seam placing difficult wires and a blind orange TCU. Pull the second crux, and continue edging up, and firing in thin wires until you get to below the roof. Clip a bolt here (which is more there to keep the rope from getting jammed in the roof crack), and exit out the left side of the roof passing a few more gear options, jugs, and finally the anchors. And don't get sucked into the off width on the left at the mid point. Stay true to the line, stay true to the line...

I think if you lead Lord Humongous to the top of the pillar, you could lead up to the anchors of Full Steam Ahead, and then set a TR, if so desired.


To the right of Lord Humongous.


The gear is not overly technical, but it does take some work finding and placing. Single set of TCUs from blue to orange, and a #1 camalot can be used in a horizontal up high. Many, many thin/medium wires!! The smallest I placed though was a #3 BD, and the placements are good when you find them.

Fixed biner anchor.

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By Keith Beckley
Oct 23, 2011

got this one done recently. Fell once at lower crux and then immediately tried again from ground and onsighted the rest! Great heady climbing with a cool roof finish! Pretty exciting climbing!
By Toast with Butter
From: Tempe, AZ
Oct 18, 2013
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I used red and blue ballnuts which made the route feel more pg than pg-13. Little wallnuts and offsets served me well too. After the first bolt crux, the climbing is technical 5.11/11+ climbing with small accurate gear placements. This route was very fun, engaging and unique climbing on stellar rock all the way until the end. A waterfall classic in my opinion!
By Kevin Kent
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 3, 2017

I found the lower crux to be very height dependent. I'm 5'8 and the hold (not exactly a jug) up and left is just out of my reach when doing the big undercling deadpoint. Also, it's doable without them but I'd bring a bunch of sliders and RPs.

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