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The Brilliant Pebble
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Brown Star S 
Delta Star T 
Fat Crack and Beer T 
Full Sail S 
Grey Goose S 
Machete Arete T 
One for the Gipper S 

Full Sail 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Mark Stevenson
Page Views: 69
Submitted By: AndyJohnson on Jun 12, 2017

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  • South side crags access issue. MORE INFO >>>
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  • Description 

    This currently overlooked route is awesome and deserves more traffic. What looks runout from below climbs very safely. The movement is engaging the whole way.

    Stick clip the first bolt. Start on the boulder and climb straight up to the small roof. Figure out how to balance / tension / smear your way left (crux, may be slightly harder or height dependent) to the first good flake. Continue climbing up the sail-like features using mostly smears for feet, past a couple decent stances, until you reach a jug below the fourth bolt.

    A hard pull up and left leaves you at a full rest stance, then easy runout on jugs brings you to the fifth bolt. Use the correct sequence of good holds up the flake to the last bolt and follow slightly sloping ledges to the drop-in anchor.

    Location 

    On the wall behind Brilliant Pebble. To get there, walk up the hill to the left of Brilliant Pebble and turn left around the top of the huge tank-shaped boulder that sits just left of the Pebble. Walk straight across a rocky area for a few hundred feet, then trend right somewhat uphill toward the intersection of two walls with a huge roof. The trail leads directly to a large crack (Fat Crack and a Beer) on the right wall. Full Sail follows a series of sail-shaped flakes up the middle of the wall thirty feet to the left.

    Protection 

    6 bolts, 2-bolt drop-in anchor.


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