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Left wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
24 Hour Crack T 
Bilge T,TR 
Full Sail T,TR 
Head Arete T,S 
High Noon T 
Melba T 
Sinbad S 
Tiger Shark TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Full Sail 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Jeff Butterfield
Page Views: 112
Submitted By: Nate Thompson on Jun 23, 2016

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Shot of the TR hanging down this route

Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Super fun route with lots of flakes to grab on as jugs. Here's the quote from Grant Simmon's guidebook: "An extraordinary moderate. Either start up the obvious groove that splits the cliff or traverse in from the left (easier climbing) aiming for a bolt shared with Rhythm Figure and Bilge. From the bolt climb up and right, passing the Sinbad anchor (optional belay), and continue straight up to another bolt. Finish slightly right on a gorgeous headwall (bolt). Single bolt and small cams for anchor (the first anchor left of the Bilge gully).

Location 

This route starts in the same groove as Bilge and heads right after the bolt shared with Rhythm Figure and Bilge.

Protection 

One bolt at the top for a combo anchor and several spots for pro, recommended up to 2" rack by Grant Simmons.


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By Nate Thompson
From: Columbia, SC
Jun 23, 2016

Watch the tides over at Great Head. I didn't have any problems while I was there, but the waves are really intimidating at this area. Also, the bottom of the left wall can be accessed from the top; however, continuing to the right at The Cavern and Morning Glory Alcove I would not even dare to access these from the top of the cliff: better to rappel.