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Full Sail 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Mark Thomas
Page Views: 1,522
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Apr 24, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (53)
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Two climbers work on "Full Sail" (10+).

Description 

Start up the steeper rock toward the center of the crag, levels out to lower angle. Then, over the bulge. Two ways 1) go slightly left for the easiest climbing (5.10a), the climb is .10+ or .11- if you continue straight up the bolt line. Longest route at El Rito.

Location 

At the middle of the crag, third route in from the arete on the left side. Just right of Clast Action.

Protection 

9 Bolts to anchors.


Photos of Full Sail Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Nearly full view of Super Slab with Cody R. on Ful...
Nearly full view of Super Slab with Cody R. on Ful...
Rock Climbing Photo: Fun cobble pulling.
Fun cobble pulling.
Rock Climbing Photo: Cody G. progressing on the 10+/11 option.
Cody G. progressing on the 10+/11 option.
Rock Climbing Photo: Exploring the 10a variation of Full Sail. A little...
Exploring the 10a variation of Full Sail. A little...

Comments on Full Sail Add Comment
Show which comments
By Larry Earley
From: Los Alamos, NM
Oct 8, 2006
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Direct line through crux is definitely 11a. I have seen many fine climbers back off and a few falls too. Bypass is 10a but not obvious and a fall will give a swing.
By chosspector
From: San Juans, CO
Oct 5, 2009

The description should read: Slightly left for 10a, direct for 10+.
By skelldify
Sep 19, 2015
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Didn't feel any harder than the other 10s on this wall... maybe I got lucky..? Maybe I'm tall..?
By Andrew B. Ellis
Jun 12, 2017
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Great route! I agree about the crux - bolt line feels 11a and cryptic, left looks much easier but off route. I recommend either using a stick clip or having solid confidence at the grade through the first 2 bolts, big fall potential but great bolt placement means excellent clipping stance.

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