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BETA PHOTO: Full Recovery P2 near the triangular roof
Originally climbed as a variation to E-stim, this re-route offers a fitting start to the best tour of the Isobuttress section of the Black Arches Wall.
P1: Climb up the blocky corners to a horizontal crack leading around the corner left. Follow it left and step up onto the narrow ledge. Follow this leftward, crossing E-Stim and Lane Change, then step up slightly and continue left to another good handrail. Take it left past one tenuous move, step up and back right to a fixed anchor on a spruce tree.
P2: Walk left on a ledge past a large, rectangular block on a ledge at head-height, then climb up on this ledge and move farther left to a vertical crack (part of Carpenter & Das, just above that route's belay ledge). Climb this to its end, step up left and follow zig-zag ramps to a vertical crack leading to a triangular roof. Climb to the roof, work around it to the right, step back left onto a perch on the nose, and climb the arete to a large ledge. Anchors on the face allow two rappels to the ground.
There are several 5.5/6ish moves: on the first pitch, the opening move of the traverse and the last few moves as well. On the second, getting onto Carpenter & Das' vertical crack and getting around the overhang near the top.
I've really come to enjoy this route; it includes plenty of airy traverse and exposed positions with secure pro and mellow climbing.
NOTE: there are several appealing variations awaiting a lead send, #1 being a complete hand-traverse across the leftward rail of the 1st P (dubbed Low Recovery), and another being a very strenuous leftward traverse (a.k.a. No Recovery), following a low, thin horizontal to/past Adirondack Rehab; but as this route crosses the entire face, one could link up with any route along the way as well.
9' right of the hand crack that becomes an OW (i.e. E-Stim), at a waist-high handcrack cutting up blocky rock to a right-facing corner, very near the right end of the Isobuttress main face.
Standard trad rack plus double cams 3/4" to 2 1/2".
As this is a traversing route, don't forget to protect your second!
BETA PHOTO: Full Recovery P1, wide crack
Tom Lane starting up the 2nd pitch.
By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Sep 17, 2012
IMO the best variant/linkup on the Isobuttress. P1 is a high quality traverse (and better than P1 of C&D, which is also usually wet). The linkup with P2 of C&D is the money pitch of the entire wall.