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Massey Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bachelor Party T 
Frozen Will T 
Full Nelson T 
Lisenby-Zacher Especial T 
Lost Vikings T 
Mindless Indulgence  T 
Modulation Crack T 
Space Between, The T 
Velvet Hammer, The T 
Waking Life T 

Full Nelson 

YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: equipped by Jesse Zacher, FFA Chris Righter and Matt Lisenby
New Route: Yes
Season: shady in AM and most of the day
Page Views: 191
Submitted By: Matt Lisenby on Oct 16, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Full Nelson topo.

Description 

P1: climb cracks to step across onto flakes/pillar. Face climb past two bolts then into hand cracks to the belay, 100', 5.11-.

P2: ascend on perfect stone, climb flakes, crimps, and laybacks with tenuous footholds past 1 fixed nut and 2 bolts, then finish with 80' of moderate hand cracks to the summit, 5.12+.

Location 

This is on the leftmost (eastern) buttress on the Massey Wall complex. Start between Waking Life (5.11) and Zacher-Lisenby Especial (5.10+). From the top of the Divide Road switchbacks, locate a small pillar/summit. Get on top of this, and find the rappel bolts (skier's right of the two pair of bolts on top of the formation, the other set is for Waking Life).

Two 100'(30 meter) rappels will reach the base.

Protection 

A single rack to a #3 Camalot, draws, and nuts. Unless you are 6' tall, expect to struggle clipping the bolts. Pre-hanging/extending draws on rappel is advised.


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By Matt Pesce
From: moab, ut.
Mar 10, 2017

Nails hard and great rock...look forward to givin' it some time this spring.

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