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Full Nelson 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Perin Blanchard
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 696
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Sep 7, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Perin Blanchard on Full Nelson. Photo by John Ros...


Start to the left of a small, incut “seat” and move to the first bolt on small edges (some have thought that getting to the first bolt was kind of tricky).

Continue up alongside a small, right-facing corner to the roof. Clip the fourth bolt and step up. The crux is getting past the next bit with tiny edges and slopey, insecure holds, but it is well-protected. Continue up to the anchors.


The right of the two bolted routes.


6 bolts, double-ring anchors.

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By Perin Blanchard
From: Orem, UT
Sep 7, 2008

Full Nelson
By KipHenrie
From: Farmington, utah
Sep 9, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Try this climb without going into the more obvious bigger holds to the right thru the first 2 bolts and it'll be a tougher endeavor. Get to the roof then to a more technical crux on crimpers then you're home free. Quality route.
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Sep 12, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Lots of good looking rails turn into ok slopers. Mostly a smearing workout. The rock is something though, it almost makes you want to dig down and see what else is under the dirt.
B.T.W.: props on the nifty trail and landing work. I know from experience that it is a big job. Hopefully nobody comes along and destroys it. YOU ALL KNOW WHO YOU ARE OUT THERE!
By Tristan Higbee
From: Ogden, UT
Sep 13, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I took my time on this route. The climbing makes you think, but I didn't particularly like the moves. Pretty sweet rock, though. Worth doing.
By Jeff Jones
From: Elk Ridge, UT
Oct 24, 2008

I did this a little while ago with Kip, Lee, John, and Perin. I thought it was very fun. A little thin and slabby at the bottom (just enough to make you think) with some neat moves toward the top. I thought it was easier than the left route.
By William Mackintosh
May 5, 2012

All four of us that climbed both routes agreed that the left route felt harder than this one.

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