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The Spire
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Full Nelson Reilly II 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 649
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Jul 12, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Tim Davis winds to follow the bulging crux of Full...


Headed up to Spire Rock to climb Full Nelson Reilly. Just blasted up the middle of the face instead of the left side (as in Full Nelson proper). Climbing was fairly protectable (5.7/5.8). Joined Full Nelson Reilly at the roof. Clipped the single bolt and finished at the chains. Very fun steep crux, moving out from under the roof was exciting, the face had a real alpine feel.


Mid0-sized nuts and small cams can be used to protect the face. 1 bolt at the crux. Easy to clip coming out from under the roof. chains at the top. TR requires a 50m rope.

Photos of Full Nelson Reilly II Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Tim Davis finishes off the bulging thin crux of Fu...
Tim Davis finishes off the bulging thin crux of Fu...
Rock Climbing Photo: Tim Davis follows Full Nelson Reilly (5.10) on The...
Tim Davis follows Full Nelson Reilly (5.10) on The...

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By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 26, 2003

I top roped Full Nelson Reilly, going up the arete. Fun airy 5.6 to 5.7 moves led to an unprotected 5.9 slab below the roof. On lead, one would climb the protectable corner to the left instead of this slab.

The crux move past the overhang was difficult; it felt like 10d or 11a.

Two stars for good moves, airy position, and clean rock.

Fun airy climb with a hard crux.
By Anonymous Coward
May 19, 2004

I climbed this route yesterday and thought it was a great. Good postion but I would have to say I think its alittle harder than get into the undercling than I used two small crimps, than get your feet up and hit a kind of slopey hold. I must of been way off because I've done my far share of 10's and this one made me think. I guess this makes it a good one
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Sep 12, 2010
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Probably the best route at the crag. Plenty of protection, though it looks sparse from below.

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