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Full Moon Good Drugs 

YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Crystal Davis-Robbins
Season: Shade
Page Views: 155
Submitted By: Nate Sydnor on Nov 21, 2016

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route is bad to the bone! The first 2/3 is relatively mellow, going from hands down to tips with a stance. That's when things get rowdy. Micro cams at the roof protect the transition into the less-than-tips upper corner. Very insecure climbing protected by the tiniest of cams leads through this to the anchor. The crack waivers in size, making the gear placements fidgety. Good luck!

Protection 

A double set of thin hands to tips, then an army of tiny cams. I used multiple (4 or 5) grey and purple TCUs and c3s in the upper corner. The undulating crack makes other cams like black Aliens less ideal. I had a 70m rope, but I can't remember how much rope we had left over. A 60m may make it, but tie a knot just in case.


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