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Upper Measles Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cabin Fever T,TR 
Cat Scratch Fever S 
Chilblain T 
Craterface T 
El Muerte Rojo T 
Full Moon Fever S 
Hydrophobia T 
Little Fever T 
Short Person's Disease T 

Full Moon Fever 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13 [details]
FA: November 2009
New Route: Yes
Season: May - Nov.
Page Views: 581
Submitted By: Jay Harrison on Nov 8, 2009

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Ben Brooke has a bad case of Full Moon Fever.

Description 

Climb up the pockmarked face, passing three bolts to reach the short crack and then an obscure ledge (V1). Continue up the short face above using the right-slanting crack.
Var 1 5.8 G: Continue diagonally up left, passing one more bolt (the top bolt of El Muerte Rojo).

Location 

Near the center of the cliff, 12' right of a crack (i.e. El Muerte Rojo) that almost reaches to the bottom of the cliff, and directly below a short crack 30' above.

Protection 

3 Quickdraws and a few small to large cams.


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By Jay Harrison
Nov 18, 2009

A harder variation, 5.8+, climbs to the left of the bolts, foregoing the crack, instead arcing leftward to reach the large sloping ledge just right of the bolt at the top of El Muerte Rojo.
By J. Serpico
From: Saratoga County, NY
May 18, 2015

One thing about this climb is the 5.7 rating isn't necessarily a sandbag, but it's the grade for virtually every move on the route while clipping bolts. The other issue is that when you take your eyes off your feet you lose your place as to where you planned to move next, because the whole wall looks the same. Finally, accept that unless you have 5.12 pocket strength on your fingers, your hands are just for balance you'll take a few less falls trying to find a big hold, maybe! Great climb but feels a lot harder than 5.7.
By Nate Gilbraith
Sep 3, 2015

I didn't feel like this was PG13
By Spencer Nowak
From: Dover, NH
Jul 5, 2016

With a few cams for the crack at the top, this does not seem like PG-13.

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