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Full Monty 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Josh Smith, Rich Strang
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 372
Submitted By: Josh Smith on Oct 28, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Full Monty: P1 is about 5.9, 70ft, P2 is about 5.10-, 90ft). P1 is the Half Monty; nice stemming up a broken corner. P2 is the Full Monty, which features everything you might expect to see in a climb plus a few things you probably could have done without seeing. Wide crack to a corner to a roof to a wild, featured off width chimney.


Look for the first obvious tower on the upper portion of the cliff; about 200 feet down from the shoulder of Capulet/Capulin. P2 has an obvious and very difficult looking roof which turns out to be pretty straight forward.


Small gear inside the chimney (0.1 TCUs) ease the gear load. Leader will want to tunnel inside near the top for a short Harding Slot Simulator. One each 0.1 to #2. #5 and #6 nice to have. Long slings to control drag. Maybe take extra 0.1-0.2 for the chimney.

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By Rich Strang
From: Santa Fe, NM
Oct 29, 2013
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Three star route for now but when it cleans up it could become a MUST DO route in New Mexico. I can't remember when I've ever been as scared climbing over loose car sized blocks (those are gone now) as I was when Josh and I first climbed this. Josh was "The Man " that day climbing over those things on the sharp end! Very cool & unique line though, give it a try with care.
By George Perkins
From: The Dungeon, NM
Oct 30, 2016
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

My head/helmet got stuck in the slot near the top and I wasn't persistent enough to figure out how to squeeze through- but climbing on the featured outside wasn't too bad. I was somewhat runout above my #5 (didn't have a #6), but may have missed TCU placements (I didn't place any tiny cams on the whole climb).
The loose rock wasn't too bad, though not as clean as the more popular climbs at Capulin.

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