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Full Horse Power 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 115'
Original:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
Season: Dry and climbable very fast after rain
Page Views: 852
Submitted By: blakeherrington on Apr 14, 2014

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The original "Power Horse" combined Iron Horse up to anchor #1 (5.11d, gear) with the 2nd part of Amandla (5.13c, bolts). The one flaw on this climb is that the anchors are arbitrarily placed on the arete, and the pitch has no logical reason to stop there. It feels a bit weird and lacking to end at the anchor on the arete. If you clip the anchor and climb farther up the arete, and then stem out right, clip one bolt, and pass the roof (on the left, or on the right as per upper Iron Horse) it makes this a much better (and slightly harder) pitch than the original. I'm calling the complete version "Full Horse Power" because it has a nice ring to it, but it's really just the logical completion of power horse.

You need a 70m to lower off, but with a shorter rope you can stop at an intermediate and do a second lower.

The hardest sequence is probably the initial span and transfer onto the arete, and the redpoint crux is just after the original Amandla anchor, on the arete. That section is pretty height dependent, but not trivial even if you're tall. Once established on the upper arete under the roof, a series of amazing holds, kneebars, and a couple small pieces of gear get you to the top via rightward or leftward climbing.

Maybe .12c to the original anchors, and .13a for the full? I know a strong local who has sent 5.14 on bolts and gear who says the arete itself is 5.13something. Or Index .11d.


Starts via Iron Horse, the thin pin-scarred crack with 2-pitons equalized by a piece of cord.


Whatever gear you want for climbing to the first anchor on Iron Horse, and then 5 draws.

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