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Full Charge Crag
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Full Charge 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Kevin Wilkinson, 2013
Page Views: 951
Submitted By: Mike Snyder on Jun 24, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (44)
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Coming up to the base of the roof

Description 

Creep onto the wall under the roof and carefully ease you way through the first crux. Wind up and left to reach the giant pockets and traverse right, under the roof to turn the lip near the crack. Follow giant pockets up the creamy headwall. The black bulge guards the anchor, there are no more big buckets. Fantastic route! Long too.

Location 

Follow the approach for Lake Point Crag, when you reach the cliff walk to the right. Cross two talus fields and find the towers with an alcove at the base.

Protection 

10 bolts, 2 open shuts


Photos of Full Charge Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Aaron hitting the Crux
Aaron hitting the Crux

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By Dan Brayack
From: Marmet, WV
Jul 8, 2013

Heard it was 12a and felt like 12a. Definitely an AWESOME ROUTE!!
By Oya Bermek
From: Cary, NC
Jul 31, 2016
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

It is rated 11d in the guidebook and it is definitely harder than 11c. That is a FANTASTIC route.
By Emerson Takahashi
From: Casper, WY
Sep 12, 2016

Hardest moves on the route feel 11d, maybe 12a, but the cruxes(the start and finish IMO) are separated by easy climbing and tons of rests, including a no-hands rest after the roof traverse.
By Skyler Mavor
Jul 30, 2017
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

A bit of a zig-zag at the start, I'd recommend a stick clip of the second bolt with a sling, and sling the 3rd bolt as well. Even then the belayer won't really be able to see the climber above the roof. Be careful not to swing into the tree while cleaning the lowest bolt.

Bucking the trend here, but I felt that this was no harder than mid 5.11, maybe unless you're super short.
By Franck Vee
Aug 14, 2017
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

I don't see this warranting a 12a, but it's a solid 11+ considering the "anchor guard" above. I don't think this should be 12 because it's only 1-2 moves that are harder to really good jugs. If it were more sustained in that fashion maybe...

The lower part is more fun and more original in style, but more like 11-. You probably want to be confortable at 10+/11- for the traverse, or at least make sure you don't do anything stupid. Falling on the way right before clipping would suck.

To clean, ideally have your 2nd clean it. If your 2nd wants to lead it as well, he/she could leave only the last 3 bolts. Clean those going top rope from the belayer's strand. You DON'T want to remove the 3rd bolt if you do that - otherwise even on the TR you may be swigning to the tree.

Better than Grasshopper imo, that lower section is just great.

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