Full Battle Rattle
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Peter Coe on P2 of Full Battle Rattle
This route ascends directly up the northeast face of Mount Ogden. It features much more continuous climbing than that found on the "Gray Slabs." Engaging movement, good shade in the afternoon, and a direct line make this a good test piece for the 5.8 leader.
Begin atop the scree/talus pile of the apron below the NE face. Start right of a large right-facing corner and left of a chossy-looking ramp that angles up and right.
P1 low 5th or 5.6R 80ft:
Wander up for about 50 on beautiful polished, compact rock, picking the line of least resistance through terrain with spaced out protection. Angle up and right to the base of a left-angling ramp under and overhang. Switchback left up the ramp and belay at the apex of the ramp in a short right-facing corner on finger size gear. Check out the old bong piton while you're at it.
Variation: Head straight up to the belay stance on sparsely protected 5.6 terrain.
P2 5.8 100 ft:
An awesome pitch! Step left off the belay around the corner to good pro in a short crack. After this, head up and slightly left on super fun crimps, edges, and dishes. Following the path of least resistance yields engaging climbing with thought-provoking, but ample, protection. Continue up the face right of the large corner system until a single rusted piton is visible up and left below a roof. Begin trending right on easier but less-protected terrain. Finish at the weakness where a bushy ledge meets an overhang. Bring plenty of small gear. Belay on 0.5 cams and medium/large nuts.
P3 130 feet 5.7:
The "worst" pitch on the route. Step left along the ledge, passing a few bushes, then rock up and right over the small overhang. Continue up the face aiming for the right side of a small tree. Past this tree, trend up and leftward, passing a small roof through its weakness. Finish on a spacious ledge under the shade and security of a large evergreen and belay.
P4 5.7 40ft:
Walk across the tree ledge and climb the short, clean face to the tree ledge just above. A portent of the equally good pitches above. Belay at a tree.
P5 5.7 130ft:
From the P4 belay, move the belay across the ledge to the right about 50 feet, ending at the left-facing corner. A tree at the lip of the ledge provides a new anchor. Climb the slab above following the easiest moves on rock that yields easier climbing and better protection than it first appears (though pro is amply spaced at times).
As the climbing tapers, head up and right across a sloping ledge system (beware loose rock!) and belay at the base of a short left-facing corner system.
There is a dug-out placement in a low horizontal crack for a 0.75. The corner crack needs either a tipped out #3 or a #4; unfortunately, this is the only place a #4 is needed on the entire route.
P6 5.6 90ft:
Climb the short face immediately above the belay (no pro) to the ledge, then walk right across the ledge and step up to sink a bomber #2 camalot in a pod near a small grassy crack. Continue up the face aiming to finish just left of the apex of the pyramid above.
Belay at the final single-bolt belay anchor of the "Gray Slabs." This bolt is easily backed up by a medium nut or finger-sized cam.
P7 4th/low 5th 100ft:
Scramble up and right along the ridge to the summit of Mount Ogden.
Descend via the walk-off trail to the saddle to the south. Continue along the ridge line trail and skirt the Needles on the right/west side to the Middle Bowl saddle. Follow the obvious trail back to the gondola.
Hike north past the "Gray Slabs" around the low-point of the east shoulder, and continue uphill passing "Wishful Thinking." Continue uphill around the right to the top of the scree/talus pile that marks the base of the route and the top of the Mount Ogden apron.
Single set to #3 or #4, doubles to 0.75. Bring plenty of small cams and 10 - 12 slings.
John approaching the P1 belay of "Full Battle...
BETA PHOTO: The first three pitches of "Full Battle Rattl...
By Neil Johnson
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Aug 29, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Bring at least a double rack of micro cams for pitch 2. The first part of the pitch protects adequately, but after the short crack system left of the belay, I encountered a healthy runout (~40'). I may have been off-route as described above, because my line landed me directly under the old pin under the roof. I found the traverse from this pin to the bushy ledge (~30') to lack any protection, but it was only around 5.6 terrain.
We bailed from the top of pitch 4 because pitch 2 used up much more time than anticipated. There is an excellent escape ledge to the South.