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Fuel Rod 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c PG13

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c PG13 [details]
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Submitted By: Jeff Scheuerell on Jul 6, 2014

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Game on, rated 10b in an older guide and now rated 10d in the new guides, the bouldery crux of this route still felt hard for the rating. Clipping the second bolt will keep your attention but not as much as clipping the poorly placed 3rd bolt. The climbing remains sustained to the anchor and calling it 10 easy is misleading. A hand size optional piece in the older guide and small optional pro suggested in the Supertopo guide is only recommended if you like carrying extra weight. You could place a hand size piece before the anchor that might hold body weight but would send rock down on your belayer as it ripped out in the event of a fall. You might also get a smaller piece to the left that could hold a fall but you would be blocking what I felt was a crucial undercling hold. While fairly well bolted by TM standards this sport route constantly felt sporty.


This route starts on a ledge several 100 ft rt of the Bunny Slopes. A short awkward bit of climbing(5th class 3rd class) is required to get on the ledge


5 bolts and 2 closed shuts for an anchor. Also you can get good gear off the ground for a belay anchor to prevent going off the ledge in case the leader falls before clipping the first bolt(recommended).

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By Jeff Scheuerell
Jul 6, 2014

3 out of 5 stars

Beware of bats in the hand size crack above the last bolt.

Trendy Bendy down and left is a fun well protected warm up
By bob jensen
Jul 7, 2014

Great hang up there and a fun climb or three to boot.
One can also climb up and right from the second bolt, to the right arching undercling. Its a bit spicy, but positive. "Tiggles Testimony"

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