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Fuel Injected Hardbody 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13 [details]
FA: Steve Petro and Kelly Moore - April 15, 1987
Page Views: 3,447
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Oct 21, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (32)
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Milking the friction on "Fuel Injected Hardbo...

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This high quality stemming and liebacking problem is located in an attractive, varnished left-facing corner just left of the much more popular Generic Crack.

Stem the first 20 feet on tiny gear (00 TCU size) to a welcome 0.75 Camalot placement. Above this is a bolt which protects ten feet of crux climbing up to some solid fingers liebacking. Save a rattley fingers piece for the run to the anchor.

Protection 

A very small cam or even a wire, lots of blue and yellow TCU sized pieces and a couple slightly larger pieces.


Photos of Fuel Injected Hardbody Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Higher up on Fuel Injected Hardbody.
Higher up on Fuel Injected Hardbody.
Rock Climbing Photo: Let the stemming begin...
Let the stemming begin...

Comments on Fuel Injected Hardbody Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jimmy Farrell
From: Lexington, KY
Dec 5, 2008
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Definitely small gear. Definitely not PG-13. It's safe and fun. Do it.
By David Trippett
From: Squamish, BC
Apr 30, 2009
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

Sucks up small cams. Very safe.
By JamesLucas Lucas
Apr 13, 2012

So hard...someone bolt the entire line please
By J. Hickok
Oct 8, 2012

Shameful to suggest - even jokingly!
By GabeO
From: New Haven, CT
Mar 27, 2013
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13

If you've got fat fingers, don't even think about it unless you're a 5.12+ climber.
By ben jammin
From: Moab, UT
Apr 2, 2013
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

I used the bolt... I'm so ashamed. OK, not really. I have smaller fingers but still thought this was harder than Unbelievable at Broken Tooth which has a similar boulder problem/liebacking style.
By Toast with Butter
From: Tempe, AZ
Apr 2, 2016
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

What the first guy said, also I plugged lots of .3 size. If you like stemming you will love this
By grog m aka Greg McKee
Jun 24, 2017

Where do I get this fuel to inject in to my soft body to make it hard?

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