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YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: ?
Season: fall/spring/summer
Page Views: 1,070
Submitted By: hkennedy on Apr 13, 2014

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This is the BEST and only multi-pitch route in Rifle! If you climb in Rifle a lot, you gotta check this rig out. The second pitch gets my vote for the BEST 5.12 in the canyon!

From Sexy Beast, head right until you see the first couple bolts and an obvious roof of absolute choss.

P1. To get to the best 5.12 in Rifle, you have to climb the worst 5.12 as well. Maybe that why this route is so classic, you get a taste of everything. Climb super steep 12a with a hard lip encounter. A two bolt anchor with a nice stance is just above the roof.

P2. Climb left off the anchor and then trend right following nice 5.10 features. I use long slings on the bottom to help with the rope drag for up higher. Pass an anchor and tackle a crux section to some nice pocket rests. There is amazing grey limestone with techy moves all the way to the anchor. This is as close as Rifle will ever get to the Verdon. Haha.

Rap with an 80 meter rope.



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