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Boaty's Birthday S 
Breaking the Wishbone T,TR 
Compound Fracture T 
Family Picnic S 
Flippin the bird T 
Fuck Rumney T 
Golf Ball Sized Urethra  T,TR 
Maybe God's a Trad Climber T 
Mountaineers Route, The T 
Traction Splint  T 

Fuck Rumney 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Kristofer Fiore, Conor Mark, Dylan Oliver (March 27, 2016)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,348
Submitted By: Kris Fiore on Mar 27, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: The line of Fuck Rumney. The Face of Family Picni...

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  • Description 

    A stellar pitch with meaty business. New beta may have softened the grade.

    After clipping the first bolt work up unique schist scoops, pinches, and crimps past small gear until you reach a stance at the third bolt. Chalk up a half dozen times and catch your breath. From here it's obvious what you're shooting for but can you figure out how to get there? Get through the business and trend right to a crack with gear and secure holds. Continue around the left of a bulge to a two-bolt anchor. But wait, there's more! There is now an additional 20 ft. of climbing with an awesome one-move crux. Clip the anchors with a double length sling and look above you for the bolt and trend up and left until you can clip it. Pull through and mantle to a second anchor shared with Maybe God's a Trad Climber.

    If rappelling from the second anchor you NEED a 60 meter rope. Nothing shorter will reach.


    Rock Climbing Photo: A 60 meter rappel from the top anchors.
    A 60 meter rappel from the top anchors.

    Location 

    30 feet to the right of Father's Day on the huge obvious arête. Look for a bolt 20 feet up.

    Protection 

    Small cams, tricams if you have them and 4 quickdraws. Maybe a medium cam or two. A #3 is nice if shooting for the second anchor. Cruxes are well protected but don't expect this to be your first 5.11. A tough onsight.


    Photos of Fuck Rumney Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Kris equipping
    Kris equipping
    Rock Climbing Photo: Found 'em!
    Found 'em!
    Rock Climbing Photo: Searching for the holds on the new upper section.
    Searching for the holds on the new upper section.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Kris on the FA of Fuck Rumney (5.11a).
    Kris on the FA of Fuck Rumney (5.11a).

    Comments on Fuck Rumney Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Conor Mark
    From: Asheville, NC
    Aug 20, 2016

    Classic, relentless, glue-ins, what more is there to say?

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