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Mustache Wall
Routes Sorted
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Air Toil S 
Aromatic S 
B-Gizzle S 
Becky Route S 
Blast Furnace S 
Boldly Departed S 
Coven (Seriously Though) S 
Cuss Terr's Last Stand S 
Dakota Street Bypass S 
Double Dog Dare S 
Fire Bomb T 
Flame Thrower S 
Fu Manchu S 
Gala Tumble S 
Gimpenator S 
Grindulator S 
Megaplex, The S 
Mr. Ridiculous S 
Mustache Ride S 
Not The Wheat S 
Notorious B.E.G., The S 
Phenomena S 
Power Of Union S 
Psycho Sexy S 
Remington Electric, The S 
Secret Stash left T 
Secret Stash right T 
Shattered Glass S 
Sidecar T 
Slippery Slope S 
Stone Cold Fusion S 
Supergrinder S 
Toiler, The S 
Window Shopper S 

Fu Manchu 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 115'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Darrell Hensel, Tai DeVore
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 549
Submitted By: Darrell Hensel on Jul 6, 2015

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Description 

This route has good variety and is reasonably continuous. It starts with small holds face, has some seam climbing through the middle, and ends with steeper good sized holds. It's hard to believe it took so long for this line to get done, as it is quite obvious, with good rock as well as good movement. Yet another score by the prolific Tai.

Start by climbing the green face left of Notorious B.E.G. past 4 bolts on technical small holds crimping - the crux is probably in the vicinity of the second bolt. Move left at the 5th bolt, then up before going back right into the leaning seams, passing 3 more bolts. Above, climb the steeper face just right of the arête past the remaining 5 bolts, going through the initial bulge and then over two more small roofs.

This pitch is 35 meters long - be careful when lowering off.

Location 

First route left of Notorious BEG. Note that as mentioned elsewhere the sorted order for the Mustache Wall routes has Coven and Notorious B.E.G. reversed.

Protection 

13 bolts. 70m rope mandatory.


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By Darrell Hensel
Jul 11, 2015

The anchor has been swapped out to facilitate "clip and lower" - no longer rings. Enjoy, it's a good one.

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