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Beckey's Wall Area
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"Elementary My Dear Watson" T 
3rd Crack Over T 
Axis of Evil Arete T 
Beckey's Wall T 
Cheetah T 
Date with Fate T 
Date With Kate T 
Fingertrip Variation T 
Fruit Loops T 
Hesitate No More T 
Hesitation T 
Needle's Eye Variation T 
Orange Sling, The T 
Pebbles and Bambam S,TR 
Shaken Climber Syndrome S 
Siesta T 
Split Decision T 
Split Fingers T 
Split Pants T 
Sweet Jane Variation T 
Tarzan T 
Tingey's Direct T 
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Tingey's Torture T 
Unsorted Routes:

Fruit Loops 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Drew Bedford & Doug Heinrich
Page Views: 404
Submitted By: Greg Gavin on Sep 26, 2014

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>

Another gem hidden in plain sight 

A fun edging affair on pretty good rock albeit with some grit because it doesn't ever get climbed.

Step off the Beckey's corner and get your balance game on. There is slight deck potential getting to the first bolt, but with pro above you in the corner system I don't think it's worthy of an R rating. Bolt 2 provides more exhilarating travel over rock above the corner so have your belayer keep you reeled in. Once bolt 2 is clipped you're out of the danger zone, and can ready yourself for the upper crux past bolt 3. Once through this you can take flared gritty cracks to the top of the wall or climb a thin crack up and right to the Beckey belay.

The Ruckman guide has the topo line going to the top of the hesitation wall through some rather suspect looking stone. I suspect most climbers traverse right to the second belay anchor for Beckey's wall.

Get on this thing! Super fun climbing on great rock that needs more love.

Location 

On the east facing hesitation wall which makes the left margin of the popular Beckey's wall 5.7. The route starts 15 feet up and left of Beckey's p1 belay.

Protection 

3 bolts, and a single set to #1 camalot.


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