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5.7 Rail Route T,TR 
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Frozen Fingers (aka Top Rope Route) TR 
Juggmo T,TR 
Morrison Solo T,TR 
Nautilus Cave Pitch, The T,TR 
Price For Fire, The S 
Sharpe's Arete (aka Thirsty) S 
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Unsorted Routes:

Frozen Fingers (aka Top Rope Route) 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Chris Perkins and Kristin Knudson, 1/27/2013
Page Views: 1,423
Submitted By: Tim C on Apr 23, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Looking down the route from near the crux.


Head straight up the black face of the dihedral. There is a thin section over the second small roof, the crux with crimp pulls.


This is at the black and white dihedral a few hundred feet north of the Cave Route.


Top rope.

Photos of Frozen Fingers (aka Top Rope Route) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Midway up.
Midway up.
Rock Climbing Photo: The rope is hanging over the route.
BETA PHOTO: The rope is hanging over the route.

Comments on Frozen Fingers (aka Top Rope Route) Add Comment
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By percious
From: Bear Creek, CO
May 4, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

There is a large block on this about 3/4 way up that looks fairly unstable. I'll X it the next time I'm there. It's going to need a crowbar and may destabilize the block above if removed. I'd advise against its use. Looking for feedback as to whether folks want this thing gone.

Otherwise, this is a great route with solution pockets, and an unbelievable rail appears, just when you need it. Fun!
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Nov 13, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I did not see an unstable block. Have you removed it? Edges appear on this right when you need them.
By percious
From: Bear Creek, CO
Jan 27, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

FFA: Chris Perkins and Kristin Knudson, 1/27/2013.

We dubbed it Frozen Fingers.
By percious
From: Bear Creek, CO
Jan 28, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

FYI, the block in still there, it may be stable, it may not.
By Furthermore
Sep 3, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

There is a finger pocket on the lower third with a wasp nest in it.

The bolted anchor is on a questionable block (the geologist I climbed with agreed). There is a hairline stress fracture near the base. Personally, I would use a gear anchor over those bolts.

Moreover, I think this route would be best protected by tri-cams.
By Justin Calhoun
Jun 11, 2014

I would stay off this route until the anchor is fixed. I am a structural geologist (study of how rocks bend, break, and deform), and too feel that the block is questionable. Not only that, but the upper bolt is now loose and wiggling. I live up the hill in Idledale and love these routes for my beginner friends. I have no anchor placement experience but would be willing to help pay and/or work to fix it.
By Jacob Miller
From: Lakeood, CO
Apr 19, 2015

Caution! I really like this spot, but the anchor bolts are placed on the far end of a cantilever-like block with an outwardly-sloped base, held in place by the weight of another loose block. I think these bolts need to be removed or relocated before an accident occurs.
By Jeremy C
From: Golden, CO
Jan 2, 2016

The main jug over the roof (halfway up) flexes really bad still if you weight it and has a visible hairline crack that goes 3/4 of the way through it. Also I agree with others about the anchor placement. The anchors are on the far end of a block that is about the size of a Buick and is cantilevering over an edge. I'm not a geologist or engineer of any sort, but I have rapped off of anchors and felt better about it than when I was rapping off of these ones. The routes that go up there are pretty fun overall though. Just be careful!
By David Oyler
Aug 8, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

I climbed this route with a friend on Saturday (August 6, 2016). The jug still flexes, and the anchor placement was ok. I took all your comments to heart, but went up to set up TR and tested the bolts and anchor rock, and felt ok rapping off the top and top-roping the route a few times.

Other than gear placement (read: set trad gear), I'm not sure how to solidify the anchor, but I do hope it can somehow be secured. It's a great, after-work area.

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