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Frothing Green 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Chris Alber, 1998
Page Views: 274
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Nov 10, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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Koko in motion.

Seasonal Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Frothing Green starts just right of the tree that is left of the central cluster of routes on the main wall. Run up on intermittent blocks and ledges. The line finds the best continuity on a wall otherwise disrupted by frequent ledge systems. A few spicy run-outs on jugs leads to a technical slab for the last 30 feet of the line. The slab is fun and can be done so as to pick up a jug haul arete for the last 15 feet. I did not detect any manufactured holds on this route.

Protection 

12 to 14 draws and double ropes. At 105 feet in length, getting back to the ground with a 60 meter rope will leave you with 10 feet of easy scrambling to the base. It is more simple to use double ropes.

Warning! 

Do not use a single 60m rope and lower your partner on this climb! Your partner may go off the end of the rope!


Photos of Frothing Green Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Koko, nothing more to say.
Koko, nothing more to say.
Rock Climbing Photo: Mark pulling through first rib crux.
Mark pulling through first rib crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: At the first difficult section.
At the first difficult section.
Rock Climbing Photo: Glen at the second clip.
Glen at the second clip.
Rock Climbing Photo: Frothing Green, on the upper part of the Bowling A...
BETA PHOTO: Frothing Green, on the upper part of the Bowling A...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pat with the expresso clip.
Pat with the expresso clip.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pat Burwick racing up the opening moves.
Pat Burwick racing up the opening moves.

Comments on Frothing Green Add Comment
Show which comments
By Bill Wright
May 3, 2002

This is a typically contrived Boulder Canyon route. If you climb the natural line and clip all the bolts, there is no way this route is 11a. It is probably closer to 5.9. Ken thought 10c, so maybe I'm overreacting. I guess there were some hard moves. The crux is supposedly the finishing slab, but you'd have to get someone up there to tape off the illegal holds to make this 11a. There are big holds on the right and left side of the blank slab with the bolts. I was never more than an arm length off the bolt line. How ridiculous. Nevertheless, it makes a nice warm-up.
By Jim Carlson
Jan 22, 2003

This is a fun, but contrived climb. The top slab is probably not 11, but depends very much on the line you take. It helps rope drag to use a sling or double draws on the 4th and 6th bolts. Don't forget a knot in the rope behind your belayer! 60m doesn't get you quite all the way back down, but easily downclimbed... Enjoy a nice long climb!
By Bo Johnston
Apr 11, 2005
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

If this was 5.11, I wasn't creative enough to find the hardest way up. Lame
By Aaron Wilcher
Jul 24, 2005

Gear Alert
Fixed hardware is okay, just a way to highlight this comment.

I've been meaning to report a safety issue regarding this route.

About half way up the route, ten feet or so before you turn the corner to the slab thing, there is a block that you sort of hug or stem around.

Off to the left there is another block that you can use to stem for your left foot. The block is loose and ready to fall on your belayer and roll down onto the highway. It's about the size of a large microwave.

This may be four to six bolts up ([can't] remember), but it is also the first section where your on your arms a little. Try to stay right.

I can't think of any way to safely [remove] this thing because simply prying it off may cause it to roll all the way down the hill.

Please, BE CAREFUL.
By Aaron Wilcher
Jul 24, 2005

Gear Alert
See comment above. On second look, the photo of the guy in the blue shirt, he is stemming left to the block that's loose.

Don't touch that thing.
By Jack Sparrow
From: denver, co
Dec 16, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Really, guys, 5.10? Must have been way off route.
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Mar 13, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

You can easily make this route easier than 5.11. The top is 5.11 if you go directly up the bolt line. We went to the right and it was easier. We thought it was about 10c in difficulty at about the 5th or 6th bolt, can't remember which.
By Mark Rolofson
Mar 12, 2017

I just watched a woman get lowered off the end of her rope on this route. She didn't stop on the narrow ledge at the base but fell down the 20 ft slab below & rolled about 40 feet down the hill. She managed to walk down the hill with a cut on the back of her head. She said she felt dizzy. Her partner was driving her straight to the hospital.

Always tie a knot in the end of your rope to prevent what happened. I am glad to see the above route description mentions this climb is 105 feet & may require a short downclimb when you run out of rope.

In my guidebook "Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide - Volume II", the topo drawing shows the lowering distance of 105 feet for this route & Lucky Strike. On the other hand, Bob D'Antonio's guidebook "Boulder Canyon Rock Climbs" just says "12 quickdraw & a 60m rope" for both this route & Lucky Strike. I find this unacceptable, & the climbing industry should stop promoting his guidebooks. His guidebook has hundreds of mistakes including misinformation on descent distances on Consilience & Chore Boy.
By Greg Barnes
2 days ago
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Fun route, but 5.10b or so (old school 5.9+) - nowhere near 5.11 unless you really try to force hard moves. I think people would like this route if it were advertised as a 5.10. Definitely use a 70m rope, my old 70 had maybe 10-15 feet on the start ledge.

I think the bolting on the top slab is kind of cool, you can climb either side of the slab and the bolts protect fine. I went up right for the first half, then traversed at a bolt to the arete/cracks/fin, nice exposure and climbing.

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