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Frosted Mug 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Chuck Turner and Bill Simes, 1982
Page Views: 8,369
Submitted By: rdlennon on Sep 12, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (117)
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Frosted Mug photo by AJ


Along with Mr. Clean, this is the quintessential Dacks crack-in-corner pitch. Beautiful, steep laybacking and jamming up a finger--> hand crack caps an exciting lower half. Begin just left of Labatt-Ami at a broken inside corner. At 10 feet, protect and traverse beneath a small overlap to gain the arete. 10 more unprotected feet (5.7R) gains a stance beneath the corner. Jam and layback the fantastic crack to an enormous ledge with two bolts.

This is really a must do; it and Slim Pickins represent the best of 5.9 in the Keene Valley area.


The route is near the climber's-right end of the Upper Beer Walls, past the 5.10 Wall. The crack lies inside a small dihedral that in turn is on the enormous right-facing arete left of Labatt-Ami.


Pro to 3", doubles of hand-size recommended

Photos of Frosted Mug Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Alexa in the Dihedral
Alexa in the Dihedral
Rock Climbing Photo: Laybacking up Frosted Mug.
Laybacking up Frosted Mug.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at Manny as he negotiates the steeper p...
Looking up at Manny as he negotiates the steeper p...
Rock Climbing Photo: Manny immediately after the the R rated move.
Manny immediately after the the R rated move.
Rock Climbing Photo: Manny just before making the "R rated" m...
Manny just before making the "R rated" m...
Rock Climbing Photo: Frosted mug is the corner on the left.
Frosted mug is the corner on the left.
Rock Climbing Photo: Frosted Mug on the left with Labatt-Ami on the rig...
BETA PHOTO: Frosted Mug on the left with Labatt-Ami on the rig...
Rock Climbing Photo:

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 10, 2014
By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Oct 13, 2009

according to the new guide book the FA was Chuck Turner and Bill Simes May 1 1982
By Mark Trotta
From: Latham, NY
Feb 19, 2010

There's a small slot at the end of the traverse at the bottom that takes a #6 BD stopper. That will eliminate the "R" in the 5.7R section. Of course this means long slings on both your first two piece of gear, but it's better than risking broken legs. When you reach the comfortable stance at the end of the traverse, peak around the corner before climbing around to it and there's the small slot just above eye level right next to a jug.
By Greg Kuchyt
From: Richmond, VT
May 18, 2010

You should be able to sew up the corner without doubles, but if in doubt take them.
By Chris Duca
From: Havertown, PA
Aug 15, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Such a wonderful line! A tad more sustained than Slim Pickins, though the gear is plentiful and more straight forward if you can stop to place it!! And, the #6 Stopper placement Mark speaks of takes some of the pucker out of the moves into the corner, as it is bomber!!
By JeanGClimbs
From: Reading, VT
Aug 30, 2010

If you use a double rope system on this climb you can go through the 7R section more safely - you can sling the first 2 pieces short and with good rope management above into the business, reduce the chance of ripping pieces should you pump out and fall.
By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Sep 20, 2010

Simply amazing. It reminded me of Return to Forever in Acadia. Oh, if it was only longer! The stoper placement is obvious and bomber before the move into the corner.
By Jaysen Henderson
From: Bronx NY
May 4, 2011

Soooooo good! I don't think the start is really R-rated because you can protect before the traverse, and once you hit the corner, the route is timeless. Don't let the R-rating scare you off this one, it is an easy move(maybe 5.5).
By worth russell
From: Brooklyn, NY
Aug 19, 2011

Just fantastic climbing. I found the slot for the #6 stopper but i would hardly call it bomber. At best i would call it mental gear that might slow your descent if you're lucky. The 5.7 r move is more in the 5.5-5.6 realm and once you pass it the climbing is pure deliciouness. Gear doubles in the bd .4-1 range with A gold for the horizopntal at the top and if you want a 4 for the offwidth section mid crack. Don't be scared just do it. bd 4 not necessary.
By Eric
Dec 14, 2011

Don't be discouraged by the "R"...
By Eric G.
From: Saratoga Springs, NY
Apr 24, 2012

I could physically bend the left anchor bolt upwards with little more than body weight. Tremedendous elvis legs while struggling to verify the quality of my placements.
By kenr
Jul 27, 2012

I think the "5.7 R" mentioned in the Adirondack Rocks guidebook is for traversing under the overhang to reach the arete. Looked to me like the "R" danger was falling before the end of the traverse and then swinging back to the right and smacking into that left-facing wall below.

A different protection problem is in the main upper dihedral corner itself ... If climbed mostly with the obvious layback technique, it tends to be strenuous to place pro, so it's tempting to rush it. Even more strenuous to move the head to a position to visually check if each new placement is good.
Someone told me they watched a leader fall and get seriously hurt when multiple placements in the main dihedral failed. Another very experienced Adirondack climber told me he thought many of the places for gear in the crack were not really secure, so need to look carefully for the best ones -- and that while stemming might not be often useful for upward progress in the dihedral, better look for chances to use it for a stance to place pro.
By Simon Thompson
From: New Paltz, NY
Nov 1, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Whew! Definitely strenuous to verify gear placements on this one. Gave me a nice pump and a wee bit of the good ol' leg shake. The "R" section at the bottom doesn't pose too much of a problem as there are solid feet up into the corner.
By Tucker Roderick
From: Squamish
Jun 20, 2013

Great pitch, thought that the "R" section wasn't too bad, especially with the stopper. Stemming is definitely the way to go, I only laybacked 1 or 2 moves. Do it!
By worth russell
From: Brooklyn, NY
Oct 31, 2013

Yes ken r laybacking and placing gear blind isn't the best way to get bomber gear.. the crack eats gear up and its very easy to stem and place.
By Luc-514
From: Montreal, Quebec
Jul 1, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

FYI trying to jam the corner at the offwidth past the horizontal crack (good X4 #.2 and C3 #1) is not a good idea when it's a damp 88º F.
Mr Clean is a LOT easier than this.
The upper corner of frosted mug is very sustained especially if you don't look out for the stemming spots.
By Nick Weinberg
From: Lyme, NH
Sep 3, 2014

Try the direct 5.10 start. Makes for a more aesthetic line, and is well protected, with really only one hard move.
By Dom R
From: Estes Park, Colorado
Nov 10, 2014

Amazing pitch, Once you're in the corner it doesn't quit until you exit it. Placing gear while stemming is the way to go, lots of upward movement can made by just stemming also. Only lay backed a few parts. Props to whomever engineered the idea for the #6 placement to kill the R. Pretty ingenious, but I found it to still be slightly mental pro for the easy moves into the corner. Definitely one of my new favorite climbs.

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