|Original:||YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA:||Scott Cherry and Chris Gill|
|Submitted By:||Anthony Stout on Aug 8, 2006|
|Comments on Frosted Mini Wheats||Add Comment|
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By Jason Young
From: Los Alamos, NM
Aug 6, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
|After stink-bugging your ass up this route, why stop there. Lower down and top-rope the short narrow slab to the left of it. This is a dirty, thin, vegetated contrivance, but really fun.......if you're into that sort of thing. Avoid the crack to the right and the bushes to the left for a greater challenge (10+?).|
By Devin Shunk
Jun 23, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
This is a strangely bolted route. The first bolt is 12 - 13 feet off the deck. Not a fun fall, I would imagine. Then, the next two bolts are within 5 - 6 feet. Why not just lower the first bolt? There are a couple of good stances to clip from lower.
For this climb, it is kind of moot, I guess. You can protect the lower part with the crack to the left if you want. But I see these high first bolts often (more up in different climbing areas up north). I just don't get it. Let's make the first part risky, then protect the hell out of the middle section? Personally, I would rather take a longer whip up higher than take a chance of decking.
I guess in the end it just comes down to me being a wuss....