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Frosted Flakes 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Bob Gaines and Dave Mayville, May 2013
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 338
Submitted By: Bob Gaines on Jan 18, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Cereal Rock, Northeast Face A. Coco Puff 5.10b or...

Description 

Climb flakes up to a steep slab with 3 bolts, then climb over a bulge past another bolt to an easier face to the top.

This climb is very well protected and a good choice if you're breaking into the 10+ grade or working on redpointing a 10+.

At the first bolt you can climb straight up (10+) or move right and back left (5.9). The moves past the second and third bolts are intricate and crimpy (10+), but you're very well protected. The bulge at the fourth bolt and the upper face are relatively easy.


Location 

From the main road parking/pullout walk around the left side of the West Face to the Northeast Face. 5 min. approach

Protection 

4 bolts, CDs to 3.5 inches, including #0 and #2 metolius

2-bolt belay/rappel anchor. 70 feet

I used a #1 camalot at the start, then a #4 camalot in the crack on the right.

I equalized a #0 and #2 metolius in the horizontal crack just below the first bolt.

You can get a #2 camalot in the horizontal crack below the fourth bolt, and a #1 camalot in the horizontal above the fourth bolt near the top.


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By Mitzi
Mar 10, 2015

Yet another great Bob Gaines route. Fun, tricky, and well protected.

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