Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Frontrange V10?
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
Page 1 of 1.  
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
Jan 21, 2016
Boulder resident here, trying to break into V10. Does anyone know of any good ones in the front range or RMNP that feels easy for a V10? I know I'm chasing grades here, but humor me... Ben Wiz
From Boulder, Co
Joined Jul 22, 2014
10 points
Jan 21, 2016
The pink route felt pretty soft.. Nathanael
From Riverside, CA
Joined May 27, 2011
133 points
Administrator
Jan 21, 2016
Ben Wiz wrote:
Does anyone know of any good ones in the front range or RMNP that feels easy for a V10? I


All the Front Range V10s have been down-graded to V9. The easy V10s have been down-graded to V8.

For good problems, check out Millenium Boulder
Monomaniac
From Morrison, CO
Joined Oct 26, 2006
16,590 points
Jan 21, 2016
Do more abs jolewis211
Joined Mar 27, 2014
0 points
Jan 21, 2016
Monomaniac wrote:
All the Front Range V10s have been down-graded to V9. The easy V10s have been down-graded to V8. For good problems, check out Millenium Boulder


Does this area get good cell phone reception?
Jon Zucco
From Denver, CO
Joined Aug 15, 2008
40 points
Jan 21, 2016
Fleshfest is a good 10, but not sure how easy it is for the grade. Bring a bunch of pads. Luckily the crux is low and it's easy to work.

mountainproject.com/v/fleshfes...
Jon H
From Boulder
Joined Nov 24, 2009
13 points
Administrator
Jan 21, 2016
Jon H wrote:
Fleshfest is a good 10...


Like I said...

Rock Climbing Photo: Fleshfest deats.
Fleshfest deats.
Monomaniac
From Morrison, CO
Joined Oct 26, 2006
16,590 points
Jan 21, 2016
Lol Mono, where is the consensus exactly? I can't quite make it out on your pic!!

I don't climb anywhere near that hard but The Nickness in Newlin looks pretty spectacular. Would be a bit of a drive for you though.
Glenn Schuler
From Monument, Co.
Joined Jun 24, 2006
1,070 points
Jan 21, 2016
Monomaniac wrote:
Like I said...


Every front range climb needs a chart to tell you what grade you should take based on holds avoided/your height/the weather that day/your favorite color/etc.
D B
From Denver
Joined Apr 4, 2011
205 points
Jan 21, 2016
Monomaniac wrote:
Like I said...

To be fair, there is a left & right variation to that problem. The left (original/contrived) variation is considered V10 & feels nails (actually, more like crimping on nails) hard. The right variation has always been considered V9 & is probably easy for the grade w/ sufficient reach.

I recommend The Amendment . It's considered V10 but no super hard/tendon wrecking move, is climbable from now until late spring (OK, there is a bit of access issue) & you don't have to defend the grade to your buddies.
reboot
From Westminster, CO
Joined Jul 17, 2006
50 points
Jan 21, 2016
Jon Glassberg climbs the right variation here and calls it V10:


Nina Williams calls it V10 here as well:
instagram.com/p/ZWhoASCMis/

If you look at any of the front range V10s on 8a, you'll see Paul, Daniel, Dave, etc call them V10, then the grade slowly drops over the years. Sometimes it's because holds break, sometimes because the FA was done in August, sometimes people just get off on sandbagging.
D B
From Denver
Joined Apr 4, 2011
205 points
Jan 21, 2016
D B wrote:
Jon Glassberg climbs the right variation here and calls it V10:

Someone of Jon's height/reach should not call that thing V10 (the only hard move he executed is the first right hand move, from a good hold to a good hold. Because of his reach, he didn't even need to bump off the bad intermediary), pure & simple. Even Jstar, all of 5'5", considers it V9. It may actually be V10 for Nina.
reboot
From Westminster, CO
Joined Jul 17, 2006
50 points
Jan 21, 2016
It's interesting that height is the only physical attribute used to downgrade boulder problems. Is God's Own Stone 13b if your hands are small? Alternatively, should people with big hands downgrade every sloper problem? Or do we just say that problem suits that person? D B
From Denver
Joined Apr 4, 2011
205 points
Jan 21, 2016
Hand size is frequently a factor in downgrading desert climbs. See Coyne or any other green-red splitter. Rob T
Joined Jun 20, 2006
10 points
Jan 21, 2016
D B wrote:
It's interesting that height is the only physical attribute used to downgrade boulder problems.

I didn't say that. But bouldering is way different from route climbing, where there tend to be more equalizing factors. Even then, Adam Ondra has said because of his relative height (& weight), he cannot compete against shorter (& lighter) climbers on pure resistance routes (in the context of comp sport climbing). When a boulder problem is essential a single reach move, it's not uncommon to have a wide grade range.
reboot
From Westminster, CO
Joined Jul 17, 2006
50 points
Jan 22, 2016
D B wrote:
Every front range climb needs a chart to tell you what grade you should take based on holds avoided/your height/the weather that day/your favorite color/etc.


I thought that this was the state of bouldering in general these days.
Brent Apgar
From Out of the Loop
Joined Oct 20, 2007
35 points


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 1 of 1.