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Front Side Lip Smack 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R [details]
FA: John Christie (onsight) & Steve Dieckhoff
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 95
Submitted By: steve dieckhoff on Nov 8, 2001

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  • Description 

    p 182 new Rossiter Eldo guide

    Upper Rincon, between POINT BREAK and RINCON DIRECT FINISH.

    P1 - There is a 'rotten band' and ledge that runs across the face. Near the middle is a wide crack. Climb over the bulge to the right of the wide crack. A #5 Camalot is the easiest to place to protect this section but a #4 somewhat higher has merit. Aim (5.10b s) for a slot which would have been the continuation of the wide crack had not the connection fallen away. Once above this next bulge follow the left thin crack on solid rock to a belay in a recess.

    P2 - The crack continues over the bulge above, and up a slab. A tricky section (5.9 s) leads to a left-facing wide crack.


    The large cam is a lot closer that it feels when you're in the middle of the ROTTEN BAND and the thin crack on pitch 1 is well-protected and quite elegant.

    As far as I know this route has only had one other ascent. Expect some lichen.


    Small stoppers to large cams (#4 or #5 Camalot)

    Comments on Front Side Lip Smack Add Comment
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    By steve dieckhoff
    Nov 9, 2001

    I hope the reference to p182 Rossiter's guide isn't confusing-that is where it probably would appear if we'd done this in time.

    We christened the rotten band THE REEF in keeping with the crag's surfing theme.
    By Brad Bond
    Mar 15, 2002

    Eric Johnson and I did the second ascent about two weeks after this route was put up (the chalk was still fresh). It's pretty good and well worth doing. It is a little gripper at the bulge, and a wee-bit hard for 10b, but the crack above is sweeeeet!

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