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Mt. Muir
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East Buttress (w/ variations) T 
From the John Muir Trail T 
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From the John Muir Trail 

YDS: 3rd French: 1- Ewbanks: 1 UIAA: I ZA: 1 British: M 1a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 200'
Original:  YDS: 3rd French: 1- Ewbanks: 1 UIAA: I ZA: 1 British: M 1a [details]
FA: 1919 LeRoy Jeffers
Page Views: 1,449
Submitted By: Aaron Slaven on Aug 31, 2013

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Mike on the 3rd class Mt Muir

Access limited from May to October every year MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Per RJ Secor, "Climb a shallow chute of loose talus and head towards the ridge on the right, where talus blends with the rocks of the summit pinnacle. Move left and climb a chimney to its head. Traverse left across a sloping ledge, the climb a crack to the small summit."

Yup, that is excatly how it goes down.

Location 

There is a rock cairn along the JMT in the gully to head off the trail. 13,780'

Protection 

N/A


Photos of From the John Muir Trail Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Short scramble but way worth the 15 min side trip ...
Short scramble but way worth the 15 min side trip ...

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By Ohio Bill
Aug 24, 2014
rating: 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a

A great little side-trip if you're doing Whitney. It was tough to find. 500 yds past the JMT junction is what the guidebook said. I thought it was awfully exposed for class 3. There are a few spots where you definitely do not want to fall.

EDIT: We were approaching from the SW. I'm told that taking a more northern approach leads to a slabby climb that is actually class 3 and not sketchy class 4 like what we did.

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