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Barton High Cliff
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From My Cold, Dead Hands T 

From My Cold, Dead Hands 

WI5 M4

   
Type:  Trad, Mixed, Ice, 3 pitches, 380'
Original: WI5 M4 [details]
FA: 1-25-2009 Jim Lawyer, Jeremy Haas
Page Views: 93
Submitted By: Jim Lawyer on Dec 26, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: From My Cold, Dead Hands, Barton High Cliff.

Description 

This is an enormous route that climbs the most obvious ice on the cliff.

Locate a huge left-facing corner on the right side of the Final Frontier buttress. The right wall of the corner is a huge ice-covered slab.

P1 WI3 M4: Climb the slab to its top. Traverse right, then down 6' to a stance. Move right around an arete and traverse right to a ledge. Small cams required for the belay. 150'

P2 WI5: Go straight up thin ice to a snow ledge, then straight up massive ice to a tree belay. 115'

P3 WI4: Move left and then go straight up to a rock cave. Continue up a column to rolling terrain. Belay at large pines. 115'

Descent: Walk left for 250' and locate a tree with a fixed rappel above Caringorm Corner. Rappel with a single rope.

At the top of the slab on P1, instead of traversing right, there is an offwidth crack that leads to ice. This "direct" would be an impressive achievement.

Location 

On the right side of the Final Frontier buttress. The ice up high is huge, and is the most obvious ice on the cliff; can't miss it.

Protection 

Standard ice rack with many shorties, rock gear to 1".


Photos of From My Cold, Dead Hands Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Joe Szot makes a belay at the top of P1 during an ...
Joe Szot makes a belay at the top of P1 during an ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting P2 of "From My Cold, Dead Hands"...
Starting P2 of "From My Cold, Dead Hands"...
Rock Climbing Photo: P1 of "From My Cold, Dead Hands".
P1 of "From My Cold, Dead Hands".

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